Take a hat along

Travel safe my friend Albertus Swanepoel

I love traveling with a hat - it’s a throw back to a glory time I think. So often, as I cruise around the planet, I have a hat with me. It’s a conversation starter, it’s a homage to style and it’s a little bit practical for sun (and for dressing things up).

Someone I have known my whole life is Albertus Swanepoel, the milliner of New York. passed away this week, and has left a void in so many lives. I will miss him dearly, but will now wear his hats (of which I have many) with a new sense of purpose and salute. His family and our family have had holiday homes next door to each other since the 1950s.

Read his Obit here in Vogue and on WWD.

Here is an interview I did with him years ago.

Meet Milliner Albertus Swanepoel - the safari loving New Yorker

A critic by nature, always crammed with marvel and a headspring of all things fashion Albertus Swanepoel is always busy. But that was just normal for the 6-ft-something Manhattan adorner of heads who has been in New York City for the last 30 plus years building his milliner business - but just don’t call him a businessman. 

He was always an Anna Wintour darling, having worked with brands like Oscar De La Renta, Donna Karan and of course also Target, Albertus has inspired true craft and old-world charm in a time of rag trade and commercial gall. Sometimes he is quoted to say “A hat is a dot on an I” and this attention to detail is evident in his speech and even more so in his work. But my friend Albertus is as down to earth and authentic as it comes with strong opinions and a handsome smile. “My motto is: happiness is a shortcut to mediocrity” said Albertus in his true to form dark witted and deep voice. 

Flatiron is where Albertus has had his studio for years. Filled with wooden hat moulds whittled in every size, oversized books of artistry and photos of all times roaring. Here I hold Albertus’ attention as about his work, design, and even more importantly himself. 

Albertus, give me juicy bits about you.

I know I come across prim and proper, which I am for the most part; but I have a decadent-dark side to me. I think most creative people, coming from a repressed background, have this. I'm mostly frugal, but then sometimes very extravagant in spending when it comes to friends, or something I really like. My fantasy world is pretty dark as well. 

I know you love music. What are you listening to at the moment? 

Opera is my big love. Donizetti, Bellini, Mozart, Puccini, and Verdi. I listen to opera 85% of the time. But then, I love disco, Also The Irrepressibles, Afrikaans music, and 1950s gospel.

Some others you love?

What comes to mind immediately is seeing very long ago- The Seven Streams by the River Ota- directed by Robert Lepage (who did the new Ring Cycle for the Met), Lohengrin and especially The Black Rider, directed by Robert Wilson. Anna Netrebko singing Anna Bolena this year at the Met, Madam Butterfly at the Met directed by Anthony Mingella, the production of Chicago (with Bebe Neuwirth and Anne Reinking), various Pina Bausch pieces, Natalia Osipova dancing Don Quixote at ABT- and the list goes on.

Let’s chat about South Africa. What are your views on fashion week in South Africa?

I haven't been to a fashion week in South Africa for a while, but my thoughts were that designers felt they had to put up a "show,” and not just show the clothes. I think Lucilla Booysen does the best job by far in terms of professional, international looking shows - it's clean, modern, and beautifully lit. Sadly, one can't compare the continents. Models are not that great in South Africa, and then there are many fit problems with the clothes and inferior fabrics. I'm not saying there is no talent though. 

What did you think of the David Tlale show at New York Fashion Week a few years ago?

I didn’t get invited! But I truly don't understand why a designer from another country would show here if he does not sell here, or get any press here. It makes no sense to me, unless it's an ego thing. I'm sure it helps the business in their country of origin, but it has no effect here. Customers are becoming smarter too; they travel and look at international magazines, so surely they must realise that a designer with no following internationally, their showing here is sort of a phantom.

And Johannesburg vs. New York? Tell me about the different relationships you have with the cities.

One can hardly compare the two. New York is the best city in the world. Thinking back, living in Johannesburg in the early 80s - it was pretty exciting. Hillbrow was sort of a small Manhattan - the coffee shop Estoril Books, Cyril's Wardrobe, and the very chic Bougainville restaurant. It was a golden age. Now, I like Johannesburg far more than Cape Town, which is so pretty, but quite provincial to me. It was difficult for me to adjust to New York; it took me many years to feel at home here. 

Would you like to sell more hats in South Africa? 

Yes, I would. It's just almost impossible with the exchange rate and freight charges. I sell my hats currently through Marianne Fassler there, and that's great. She is a very dear friend of mine. 

What does aesthetic mean to you?

A lot. I still can't really understand people that are, say, talented graphic designers, but their houses look like $&@! To me it extends to every aspect of your life, whether it's a spoon, a chair, or clothing. My partner and I just recently bought a dining room table - my first in my life! A Gregor Jenkins, that in itself is quite funny in a way, seeing that I am living in New York: but I think his work is brilliant. I rather be without than have something I think is ugly. Of course, taste differs, and some of us have budgets, but personally, I look at everything from a design standpoint. It's second nature to me. For me, coming from Pretoria, and having quite a tough upbringing, looking for beauty was an escape from the ugliness around me from every young age.

And your personal aesthetic in relation to the product you create?

I always say more is more. Less is a bore. I used to dress pretty outrageously in my young days. I love Christian Lacroix and Tony Duquette. But, living here for so long, I find t-shirts and jeans very sexy too. So the short answer is I swing both ways! 

So what makes you different? 

I hope my work is seen as modern and wearable. I'm the first to proclaim I'm no Philip Treacy or Stephen Jones. They are brilliant. I think my hats are in the mood of the season, or the times. They don't overpower the wearer nor make some statement. They sometimes have an element of wit. I'm not creating art, but I do think carefully about design principles when I make a hat, and I think one can see that. My hats are also very well made, if I may say so myself!

What has changed the hat business? 

Fashion has changed the hat industry! It comes and it goes as an accessory. Currently, there is a resurgence. Luckily, in a city like New York, there are enough people who like hats, so one can make a living from it. Men are actually wearing more hats than women now. 

Tell me about your personal design loves?

I live sort of in my head, so I somehow don't look at that many things. Obviously, amazing things here surround one all the time. My loves go from Christian Lacroix Couture to Rei Kawakubo. There is always this tension in my likes, like Hollywood Regency style and mid century modern. It's a fine line to me, especially in hats: whether you wear the hat, or it wears you. I'm certainly more in love with Baroque than minimalism. But with hats, I prefer some restraint.

What gives you a creative revelation?

I must be honest; I’m slightly jaded, and very hard on myself. Not a great combination. I hardly look at fashion for inspiration, unless it’s Rei Kawabuko and a few other visionaries. I find creative inspiration in other things. In terms of a revelation, sometimes it comes after weeks of thinking about a certain solution, or unexpectedly seeing something in the design field or daily life that sparks an idea.

Who wears hats today?

Cool people! It is a niche market, especially at my price point but in NY a lot of people, old and young, wear hats as part of their daily wardrobe. It is not too much here a statement piece or show off piece, more an extension of a personality, or for functional reasons of course. Men are wearing hats a lot more than women actually, I find. In other cities, like London (and maybe Pretoria!) hats are worn more on occasion, as if to show off.

What did you think of the hats at the Schiaparelli Prada exhibition at the Met?

Elsa Schiaparelli was a great designer. She collaborated with artists like Cocteau and Dali in her day, which had a great intellectual and creative impact on her work. She understood whimsy and provocation - both essential elements for a good hat. I’m a great huge fan and the only vintage hat own, is by her.

Your creations are pure beauty. Do you see yourself as an artist or a designer?

Thank you! I’m definitely of the fashion is not art school. Fashion is disposable; mostly trend driven or seasonable but timeless art is not. I think it’s artistic, and certainly a craft. I’ve had a few hats in museum exhibitions now, but I don’t create art. Having studied Graphic design (under Ernst de Jong nogal), I think about design principles when I make my hats - proportion, texture, positive and negative space- and take it seriously (much more than merely decorating a shape), but it remains a commercial object at the end of the day. I think I have an artistic temperament though.

Your signature paired down elegance is so unique. Where does that aesthetic come from? 

It is interesting to me, as I am a more is more person. I love Baroque, Hollywood Regency, opera, Africa and most things over the top, yet my designs are mostly paired down. I strongly feel that hats, being worn so close to the face, should not over power the person, and I guess therefore I bring things a notch down. I still try to evoke richness in my designs, maybe by the combination of colours, textures or elements I use. I really dislike over designed hats with the kitchen sink on them.

I also think living in NY for so long has something to do with it - it is a very no fuss kind of living, and most people, unless you are a devoted fashionista, just want to put something great on and get on with it, not obsessing for hours about a complicated design.

How did you decide to come to New York?

Me and, my then concubine, Shaneen Huxham, came here in October 1989, actually to be with my dearest friend, Pnina Fenster, who came to do a creative writing course at Columbia University. It was my second time ‘overseas’, and I was immediately smitten (and startled) of this city.

After growing up in Pretoria, this was quite a shock to my system. I, by fluke, got a job offer after three days, and never went back.

Tell me about design trends for hats?

There is a movement towards wider brims now. It started with the floppy hat (think J.Lo), but that, thank heavens, is over now. So now fedoras and other shapes are tending towards wider brims. I think the Schiaparelli/Prada exhibit might have an influence as well, as I get many press requests for surreal hats. I also like the idea of wearing a felt hat in summer, I like the contrast.

Caps and military inspired helmets have also been very popular.

What do you do think of the fashion industry back home?

This is a slippery slope for me to answer. I go there yearly and I am constantly inspired by design in South Africa - industrial, advertising and graphic, but fashion leaves me mostly cold. Being a stickler for technique, I find that the infra structure there is busy collapsing - no more schools who train pattern making and fit properly. Trust me, I also thought I was a big fish and knew a lot when I left there, but after walking through Barneys once and you soon realise you have so much to learn about technique. I think getting decent fabrics is an issue there, which cannot help. I really feel upcoming designers in SA should travel overseas and intern with a big house, before becoming a ‘ couturier’ there! And let me say - there is no couture in South Africa. With the exception of a few designers there, I just mostly don’t see people wearing the clothes on the street (or here at least)- it tends to be costumey and geographically restricted.

Tell me about your Target collaboration.

Anna Wintour ‘suggested’ to Target that they should do collaboration with me. Ed Filipowski (who owns the mighty PR company KCD,) then arranged a meeting with them. They were a dream to work with. I handmade all the samples in my studio, it was sent to China and after several rounds of approval meetings 130 000 hats were made. I was very impressed with their quality at that price-point. It also got my name out to a very different segment of the market and I received priceless publicity.

In terms of designers, what do you love?

It is a wide field, I will throw out some words whom I admire-in terms of clothing/fashion: Cecil Beaton, Oliver Messel, Tony Duquette, Christian Lacroix Couture, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Rei Kawabuko, Junya Watanabe, and most period clothing.

In terms of interior/home design: Hollywood Regency style, Zaha Hadid, Art Deco, mid-century modern, Santiago Calatrava, Kisho Kurokawa, Christian Liaigre, Bugatti and Dorothy Draper.

Your love is the African bush. How does that influence your work?

My family came to SA in 1678, so my roots are pretty deep. I grew up going to the NKP every winter vacation. I love nothing more in the world (except shopping at Barneys) than driving through the park, windows open, listening to opera music and feel humble, yet connected. The silence, but also the sounds and unforgiving brutality of nature inspires me, the animal prints of course, the starry nights and fantasies of being a game ranger!

When you come back to South Africa occasionally what do you enjoy about being back on African soil?

Mostly my incredible friends there. I have, after 30 years here, still more friends in SA than here. I think people cherish friendship there more than here. It is a very different life style of course - you just can’t pop in here to someone’s apartment and stay for dinner. There is always guardedness here, and so I love being totally myself there. As said, spending time in the bush or veld, and I do love the sea. People in SA are very privileged to live with all that beauty so accessible.

What’s the best quote you’ve ever heard or read?

Happiness is a shortcut to mediocrity.

Albertus Swanepoel has in his career won the Coty Award in South Africa, been one of the two runners-up for the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund Award, been nominated for the Swarovski CFDA Accessory Award & Best Accessory Designer at the WGSN Awards and has exhibited at Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Read more about Albertus at http://albertusswanepoel.com/ and yes get yourself a hat.