The art of polo is distinctly Persian. Even the word polo, meaning ball, is derived from the Balti language. But today the game of polo is finding a shiny new vitality amongst the billionaires in China. For them, the elite allure of the game, and the sheer skill of it, makes for a perfect accompaniment to a luxury lifestyle.
Centuries ago the sport had already made its way to China, and the Tang dynasty (617 - 908 A.D.) emperors played with the finest horses they could breed. The sport found its home in one of the country’s ancient capitals, Chang’an, and was also played by women (who wore male dress to do so). But that was quite a few centuries ago.
The way we understand the game today was in fact created in India, with the first polo club opening in 1833 in Assam. The British, upon colonialism, are credited for spreading the game world-wide. But first they opened their own fancy polo club, the Calcutta Polo Club, established by two British soldiers, Sherer and Captain Robert Stewart in 1862.
Next in line, with great culmination today, is the Argentine Pampas. British settlers in Argentina started to play the game in their free time and over the next century it became the country’s greatest pride producing some of the top players in the world like Nacho Figueras. But, naturally, the United States of America didn't want to be left out of such splendor. And so in 1876 James Gordon Bennett, Jr., the publisher of the now defunct newspaper the “New York Herald,” organized the first polo match in the U.S. Right on Fifth Avenue no less, at Dickle’s Riding Academy.
Today the finest club in America (or so they say) is in South Carolina - a sterling example of how the sport has excelled and brought a whole new audience in just over a century. “Aiken has been a presence on the polo scene since 1882,” says Barb Uskup, Aiken Polo Club Board of Directors Treasurer. “Aiken Polo club's historic Whitney Field is the place to sip a cocktail while watching the sport of kings each Spring and Fall. Polo has grown in Aiken due to the tremendous amount of polo fields that each feature incredible sand footing allowing play not only during the two seasons of tournament polo but also allowing for practice chukkers twelve months a year. For players and socialites both the Southern hospitality found in Aiken welcomes and embraces making it a truly rewarding and fully entertaining experience.”
In China today the sport has been truly brewing for the last fifteen years, and finally has been discovered by the new rich - keen to learn the fine art. One of the best facilities, the Tianjin Goldin Metropolitan Polo Club, has put itself forward as the largest polo club in the country and prides itself as a retreat for China’s “new nobility” - with the best equestrian facilities imaginable. There are three polo fields with 300 stables and then the club (with a sumptuous hotel) has 12 restaurants, wine cellars with only the finest vintages, and plenty of real estate available to acquire.
“We started the club to promote a new lifestyle and create a polo community in China,” says Domenico Palumbo, the General Manager at Tianjin Goldin Metropolitan Polo Club. “We see the opportunity to introduce a new and exclusive type of luxury to the region,” said Mr. Pan Sutong, Chairman of the polo club developer, Hong Kong-listed Goldin Properties Holdings Limited, in a press conference when the club opened. “By bringing in polo, a sport that is becoming increasingly popular amongst royal families and the affluent around the world, Tianjin Goldin Metropolitan Polo Club and Hotel will add to Tianjin’s status as a landmark destination and contribute to its overall city status.”
In addition, the polo club sponsors other major tournaments throughout the year, bringing in teams from global polo centers including England, Argentina, U.S., and Hong Kong. It also hosts the international Snow Polo World Cup, which is organized by the International Polo Association. The club has been in a serious expansion mode as it built a massive indoor stadium with a retractable roof and capacity for 5,000 people, including special boxes for VIPs.
The marketing materials for the club appeal to potential residents to “become a part of the new nobility” and “take your place amongst the elite,” while Pan’s motto for the development is the Chinese phrase “qian jin mai wu, wan jin mai li” - translated to be “a quality house is worth a thousand pounds of gold, but quality neighbors are worth ten thousand.” And thus, a new precedent has been set.
Reserved primarily for the wealthy, the sport needs some serious commitment according to Palumbo: “Polo is an expensive sport because it gets to be very involved with a horse, the polo field, all kinds of equipment, a professional coach and so on.” But at the Metropolitan Club most of the members are also property owners - encouraging an active role in the sport of course. With over 200 horses in the stables some of the members even own their own animals.
But the commitment requires hours and hours, and a whole lot of finesse sprinkled in. “Actually it might take a lifetime to master the sport,” says Palumbo. “It depends on a lot of facts, which level you start at, how ambitious you are. I think mastering a skill, such as foreign language or polo for that matter, will be a lifetime project. All you need to do is to be holding onto it and keep learning, practicing as much as you can.”
But it really isn’t just about the art of the sport - there are deeper implications at play here. “Polo is not just a luxury thing. It is a family fortune and this king's sport helps to cultivate second generations to become better people,” says Palumbo. Ask anyone around the club and they will just immediately refer to the two princes from the British Royal Family as a perfect model of gentlemanly behavior. I mean I hear the irony there, loud and clear thank you. But for this new class of Chinese this is one more way for the truly wealthy to make sure their fortune grows year after year, generation by generation.
But the growth is slow and steady. The same was that golf entered the Chinese market in the 1980s, polo is the next sport for the elite. They call it the “Sport of Kings” for a reason. With a Chinese Equestrian Association that formed in 1983, it now boasts 280 registered athletes and 336 registered horses. And it has taken them just over 20 years to grow this niche. Besides The Metropolitan there is also the Beijing Sunny Time Polo Club, founded by Xia Yang in 2004 and the Nine Dragons Hill Polo Club in Shanghai, founded in 2005.
Comparatively in the U.K. there are 66 clubs and all host their own tournaments, mostly at the lower level. The key tournaments of the English season are the Queen’s and Gold Cup played at 22 goals at Guards Polo Club and Cowdray Park Polo Club. The Burlington Polo Association used to be one such club in London. Today they act as the governing body to the sport - looking after rules and regulations as well as handicapping and the National Team. The U.K. has forever promoted the sport as a wealthy pastime - and China is next to do the same. But as David Woodd, Chief Executive at Burlington Polo Association, says “Any equine sport is expensive but polo is much more accessible than it used to be. More clubs around the country and more ponies that can be hired. To fund a team, you have to be wealthy - but to play as an amateur is open to many more.”
Does it feel like this sport has the most attractive players? Perhaps so.
And according to Woodd the sport is growing internationally: “definitely in places like the Middle East and spreading to places like China, also to Eastern Europe.” But the appeal, besides for the speed and exhilaration of watching horses running at each other, is the social aspects. “It is tougher than it looks, but it is clever as you can team up to play with and against the best players in the world, like pro-am golf,” says Woodd. “You do not have to be an outstanding player but rather worth your handicap. It is a fast game which does not take all day, and is generally played in good weather at attractive locations. it is exciting to play even at the lower levels, more so than to watch, you play with and meet interesting people and you can play all over the world.”
Nothing like speed, some travel and the beauty of horses to fall in love with.
What about planning a trip dedicated to Polo?
Abercrombie and Kent have just the thing - A Journey to Argentina.
Learn some of the secrets of one of the most traditional and unique sports the country has to offer, this week could include an introduction to the Polo Pony, and the possibility to watch practice drills and learn about what it takes to train a great polo pony. Of course you’ll also be escorted to watch a polo exhibition match and see this intricate and fast-paced game happen right in front of you. They have bilingual commentators that do a great job of explaining the fundamentals of the match. Accommodations will be at the Four Seasons Buenos Aires of course.
A perfect journey to whet your appetite before finding your own club.
www.abercrombiekent.com