New Zealand hikes

...if you just need to get away for a little bit

It’s a new year. And I am choosing to be filled with optimism.

I wrote about Angola for the New York Times this past week and it filled me with such joy to think of the fascinating place that is Angola and how much I loved spending time there. Read that at the link above.

Besides for that, I am planning another trip to New Zealand with my bestest friend (and one of the few people I absolutely love traveling with at all times). One great way to spend your energy and time is to go walk in some of the most remote places on the planet. So why not head south, very south.

New Zealand’s World-Class Wonder Trek 

With volcanic vents, emerald lakes, alpine herb fields, and mountain views that stretch to eternity, a walk along the Te Araroa trail offers some of the world’s most dramatic vistas. Whether you have a weekend, five days, or a week and then some, options abound for those looking to experience New Zealand’s natural beauty and rich indigenous culture.  

“The Long Path,” the Maori description for the Te Araroa Trail, is over 3000km and spans almost the entire country of New Zealand. The trail runs the gamut from open swaths of mountainous terrain to small urban enclaves, and even includes a river that requires paddling along the way. The North Island allows for dramatic vistas of farmland, coastal cliffs, and volcanoes, whereas the South Island portion combines wooded National Parks and riveting mountain passes flanked by high country stations. 

What makes this trail remarkable, aside from its wondrous showcase of ecodiversity, is the opportunity to engage respectfully with indigenous Kiwi culture. Along the trail, walkers will be granted access to Maori marae, a complex of communal sacred spaces for the Maori community. Locals call this “tramping,” a tradition where voyagers are invited into local homes to swap stories over a shared meal. 

To do the entire trail, which consists of eighty-seven distinct paths, could take a traveler four to six months. But if you’re shorter on time, we’ve mapped out three unique segments—of varying terrains, lengths, difficulties, and time commitments—to give you just the right taste of Te Araroa, and the majesty of New Zealand. 

A WEEKEND 

Sometimes all you have is a quick weekend to get away. In this case, we suggest the Tama Lakes area, between Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe, with views of two lakes in 10,000-year-old explosion craters on the North Island. 

The Tama Lakes Trek is simply stunning, with volcanic steam vents, emerald lakes, alpine herb fields, and views that seem to stretch forever. If you’re looking for just a mild walk, the Rotopounamu Track or Taranaki Falls walk are short on distance but not on beauty. For the more adventurous traveler, the area is home to New Zealand’s highest stand up paddle and world-class wilderness fishing. If you’re looking for something truly unique to add to your agenda, try the Horopito car graveyard. “Smash Palace,” as it’s known, is a museum for the country’s wrecked cars, some stretching back to the 1940s. For a break from trekking, hop on a train, helicopter, or jet boat along the Stratford-Okahukura railway line and Whanganui River. 

When you work up an appetite, head to Station Cafe, located inside a historic and fully renovated railway, where trekkers like to meet for a quick breakfast or an afternoon bite. For a more elevated dining experience, there’s Knoll Ridge Chalet, perched on the edge of Mount Ruapehu at 2,020m. (Take the Sky Waka gondola to get there.) And for high tea with a view, try Chateau Tongariro in Tongariro National Park, where you’ll see the sacred peaks of the Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, and Tongariro mountains. 

FIVE DAYS

If more time permits, the spectacular Queen Charlotte trek, at the Northeastern tip of New Zealand’s South Island, will take roughly five days. Perfect for walking, or even biking, the 70km trek is set against the Marlborough Sounds, a collection of ancient sunken river valleys that overflow with water from the Pacific. Starting from historic Meretoto/Ship Cove, it weaves through the coastal residential village of Anakiwa in the Grove Arm of Queen Charlotte Sound, with the option to take a water taxi back to the small town of Picton. The trek is a total thrill, with steep forested hills hovering over the sea, amidst a coastline lined with sheltered inlets and sandy bays. Maori tribes have been in this area for more than one thousand years, and it was also the base for European navigator and explorer Captain James Cook during his explorations of the South Pacific in the late 1700s.

The area is known for its rich diversity of animals, with native birds like the fantail and weka as well as a variety of wild dolphins. If you’re tired of dry land, take a swimming tour with five different types of dolphins, or go sea kayaking through the sparkling waterways of the Marlborough Sounds. And to tap into the local culture, book a visit to a Maori Marae, where an iwi (tribe) will hold funerals, meetings, and celebrations. And don’t miss Havelock, an old colonial town at the mouth of the Pelorus and Kaituna Rivers, which is home to charming cafes and small galleries where all proceeds go toward the preservation of local communities. 

Set on the jetty overlooking the sparkling Endeavour Inlet, the Boatshed Café & Bar at Punga Cove offers a casual lunch menu of seafood paired with world famous Marlborough wines. In the evening, head to Furneaux Restaurant and Bar, located in an original homestead. While you’re in the area, indulge your raw bar fantasies with green-lipped mussels and a glass of chilled Sauvignon Blanc on the tranquil Pelorus/Te Hoiere and Kenepuru Sounds.

A WEEK

Surrounded by towering mountains on the South Island, Queenstown is the perfect hub for adventure of all kinds. But the city is also home to a sparkling cosmopolitan energy, with abundant opportunities for post-trek downtime. 

If you plan on doing short-to-medium day trip treks with stays in Queenstown or Wanaka, a few excellent options will satisfy. Mount Iron Track is a loop walk with 360-degree views, while Rob Roy Glacier offers an easy route into a dramatic alpine landscape that includes snowfields, glaciers, sheer rock cliffs, and waterfalls. Choose from several walks, including short options suitable for kids, at Diamond Lake and Rocky Mountain, complete with glassy lake views. 

If you choose to stay on the trek for the duration of the full week, combining Greenstone and Caples Tracks with the Routeburn Track is the pinnacle of the New Zealand mountain experience. But make sure you possess some alpine, navigation, and river-crossing skills; here you will weave through meadows, reflective tarns, and alpine gardens. (Maybe leave the kids behind for this one.) 

There’s plenty of world-class mountain biking here, or more leisurely routes perfect for an e-bike along the lake’s edge. LandEscape Wanaka offers bikes to rent, along with cedarwood-fired hot tubs that sit surrounded by mountaintops—and, at night, the starriest of skies. (Ideal for winding down after a day of paddleboarding or heart-pumping waterfall cable climbs.) Explore the remote landscapes of Lake Hawea with Ridgeline Adventures; off-road safaris take you to sheep farms surrounded by silence. If you prefer a bird’s eye view of the terrain, Alpine Helicopters or Southern Alps Air will get you there.  

Don’t worry about getting hungry along the way; Wanaka is stacked with delicious eateries. Start the feasting at Muttonbird, where a daily rotating menu highlights seasonal ingredients and local wines. Scroggin is where you’ll go midday to ensure you’re well-fed and well-caffeinated. And for fine dining, try Arc, where an open kitchen and an abundance of wildflowers set the tone for a menu of ultra-fresh produce. Here you’ll also find one of the country’s oldest pubs; built in 1863, the Cardrona Hotel is the perfect spot for a pint on the Crown Range Road between Queentown and Wanaka. A newer, hipper option is Cardrona Distillery, where you’ll find native food and grain-to-glass spirits. 

Some wineries with world-class views include Rippon, a third-generation family business with biodynamic wines and Mt Difficulty, known for their experimental plantings of Chenin Blanc and Syrah. Be sure not to miss Kika, owned and operated by award-winning chef James Stapley, and one of the best restaurants in the country. 

Come for the views, stay for everything else.