Mix me some Munich

Perfect for a city escape this spring

The Bavarian capital may have played second fiddle to the more famed command of Berlin, but these days Munich has taken on a much sunnier disposition. By combining world-class art, a locavore sensibility, a plethora of bike lanes and an amity tune of easy living the city is charming visitors impassioned by a contemporary Germany. Of course the city’s motto, “München mag dich” - Munich loves you - fortifies the allure. 

Munich, on the banks of the ever-verdurous Isar River, was first mentioned in the year 1158 and derived its name from an old High German term “of the monks” and has since then become synonymous with the designation “Oktoberfest” – the original and first. The beer tents, or “Bierzelte”, with their flamboyant set up commence in the month of September complete with traditional Oompah music. Today the festivities attract millions of pilgrims keen on the city’s wheat beer, or “Weissbier”, and white sausage (“Weißwurst”) eaten with dollops of sauerkraut and a hearty smile. 

What gives Munich its primacy is that there are no formal touristy areas – the city mingles with everyone, and everyone mingles with the city. Whether you’re buying vegetables and fruit or perusing the delis at Viktualienmarkt, walking down the trendy Türkenstrasse, having a beer at the famous beer hall Hofbräuhaus am Platzl or laying out in the sun around the Englischer Garten (English Gardens) the city will be doing it with you. Locals celebrate the Bavarian way of life not just by a general sense of optimism and commitment to wellness but are often seen around town on bicycles and in traditional attire – the “Dirndl” dress for the ladies, “Lederhosen” (leather trousers), “Haferlschuh” (brogues), “Wadenstrümpfe” (half stockings) and a “Gamsbart” hat for gentleman. UMMM right.

Besides the fascination of the discovery of more than 1 400 works of art in a Munich apartment, including some lost Picasso and Matisse stolen by the Nazis, the city has also in recent years discovered their own love for art. Munich has invigorated a whole art realm by opening, encouraging and allowing contemporary art across its boroughs, royal avenues, giant parks and antique squares. Evidence from public pianos scattered around the city from a “Play Me, I’m Yours” traveling arts project and several museums revamping and reopening throughout this year again. 

One of my Munich inspirations came from the artist duo Elmgreen & Dragset with their “A Space Called Public / Hoffentlich Öffentlich” and was funded by City of Munich; these included an Ed Ruscha billboard, a Fourth Plinth replica and even a shrine to Bubbles the chimp. And the initiative from the city’s Department of Arts and Culture with their exhibition of the British architect David Adjaye at the Haus der Kunst (his biggest exhibition yet). 

If you’re planning to spend your day in the city do so either by foot, on bike, by bus or using the well-planned network of trains – the Munich U-Bahn (underground railway), the Munich S-Bahn (suburban trains) or the oldest public transportation in the world, the Munich tram. Some ideas for these lovely Munich days include:

- Park hopping: 

Start off at the Englischer Garten (Between Prinzregenten and Freimann straße), bigger than New York’s Central Park, as it is perfect for nude sunbathing, jogging or having a beer and perching spot at the beer house, Seehaus. On the stretch of the Isar River known as the Eisbach – a tributary that runs right through these English Gardens – surfers can enjoy a permanent wave from the underground tunnels. In perfect German politeness one surfer enjoys the surf at a time with an entourage waiting patiently in queue. Then move to the Hofgarten (Hofgartenstraße 1), which is an Italian style Renaissance garden with a pavilion built for the goddess Diana in its center and is ideal for watching people pass by with your hot pretzel in hand. Along the side of the Isar River throughout town benches are waiting for walkers-by to daydream or read some dog-eared Hermann Hesse or Karl Marx. 

- Hunting down beer gardens

The most famous of the watering holes in the city is of course the Hofbräuhaus am Platzl (Platzl 9). But on a summer’s evening it is the friendly brewery Augustiner Schwalbe (Schwanthalerstraße 149) or the late night open air terraced Augustiner-Keller (Arnulfstrasse 52) that can satisfy any thirst.  

- Explore the arts

One of the newer additions to the Kunstareal, or “art zone”, of the city is the Brandhorst Museum (Theresienstrasse 35a) with a collection of late 20th Century and contemporary art. The Maximilian Forum (Maximilianstrasse 38) on the other hand is an arts space in the neo-Gothic area extraordinaire and run by the city dedicated to the applied arts and according to them examined as jewelry, design, fashion, architecture, as well as artistic and cultural projects to anything interdisciplinary. The non-collecting Haus Der Kunst (Prinzregentenstrasse 1) opened in 1937 by the Third Reich as homage to Germany's finest art. Today the museum prides itself in its high caliber traveling shows like the fabulous “Gilbert and George” exhibition. The museum was also reworked and redesigned by David Chipperfield, the notable British architect - sumptuous. The Lenbachhaus (Luisenstrasse 33) designed in Florentine style and completed in 1891 as a villa and studio for the artist Franz von Lenbach. The building was recently redone by the architects Foster and Partners and has gradually over time placed more and more emphasis on their contemporary art collection including some Andy Warhol, Franz Ackermann, Stefan Huber and Sigmar Polke. 

- Find the newer museums

A few years ago the State Museum of Egyptian Art (Gabelsbergerstrasse 35) sunk underground like a Pharaoh’s Tomb and was designed with their highest level of conservatory protection. Make sure your attention is on the accessories that these great rulers took with them to their apparent after lives. Also newer in the city is the Nazi Documentation Center (Briennerstrasse 45) addressing the city's National Socialist past, role in Hitler’s rise during and before the war and the ramifications of Nazi dictatorship in general - all in the cube building that was Hitler’s former party headquarters called the Brown House. 

- Shop like a local

The Maxvorstadt area, just north of the city center, is known for its classical buildings between Odeonsplatz, Königsplatz, and Ludwigstrasse commingled with large buildings from the University. Here is where little shops are at their best with handcrafted goods that have been made on site for centuries, antiques from hundreds of years ago and historical tchotchkes like a mini glockenspiel or even an oddly familiar fairy tale character. Manufactum (Dienerstrasse 12) is where the city buys high quality everything – from kitchenware, to clothing and accessories all the way through furniture and food. Here the motto is trends don’t matter, outlasting is all that counts and so a perfect match for a function driven city. Started by a German couple in 1930 as a wine and beer store the Käfer Feinkost today is an upscale grocery store that caters for the finest German palettes: from Schlachtschüssel (butcher’s plate) to Leberkäse (baked sausage) to Topfenstrudel (a regional specialty cake). 

- Eat like a local

Besides the endless amount of perfectly excellent traditional schnitzel and sausage joints across the city, the locals have developed a taste for Yankee burgers. With several locations around town Hans im Glück (Nymphenburger Strasse 69), named after the German fairytale about finding real happiness, offers gourmet patties for meat devourers as well as vegetarians. Although the city’s fare can often be described as overly wholesome there are restaurants that are changing the game with their farm to table seasonal offerings including 1804 in the English Gardens. “Sustainable - seasonal - regional” says their chef Lukas Adebahr with cuisine that often draws on Bavarian influences but are curious and surprising.

- Drink coffee (not from a chain)

Wash and Coffee (Klenzestrasse 1) is not only a perfect place to meet people, you can also do your laundry here and get a decent coffee all at the same time. The Farmers Market and Marienplatz shopping around the corner is another recent to hang around while your t-shirts are spinning dry. But for the best coffee in town it is Man Versus Machine (Müllerstrasse 23), an independent roasting company, which brings the perfect amount of wit and soft roasting to every single cup. 

- Rest your head here

There are many high-end luxury hotels in Munich. The first, the Mandarin Oriental (Neuturmstrasse 1) is located in the old town and comes with the usual brand appropriate style, finesse and “fan” culture. Of course the world-class spa and dining options appeal equally. The second, The Charles (Sophienstrasse 28) is the grand dame of the city and although new has all the old world charm expected from a beautiful and elegant hotel. The fact that the hotel is near the old botanical gardens and has an ultra length pool makes for the perfect address. 

If your taste for hotels is more quirky and design-led there is the Flushing Meadows Hotel (Fraunhoferstrasse 32) at the helm of an industrial building in the city’s most vibrant neighborhood, the Glockenbach. Here the loft-like rooms and the views sweep any visitor away. There is also the Louis Hotel (Viktualienmarkt 6), a perfect symbol of Bavarian beauty in perfect poise combined with openhearted warm hospitality – and the beds provide for angel’s rest. 

If you're interested in living like a real local make sure to check out Airbnb.com with a hefty array of available accommodations for rent including rooms in old Munich castles, a trailer parked in a trendy suburb and even a small house boat.

- Leaving town

The easiest option is to take the train from the main central station (Bayerstrasse 10A) and venture out to the lakes and mountains in any direction. But of course renting a car is just as convenient if your driving is up to German Autobahn strength. 

In summer, options around Munich are plentiful but one of the highlights is the Miesbach district’s Tegernsee, founded in 746, today functioning as a spa town surrounded by Alpine landscape. The former Benedictine Abbey of Tegernsee is open to visitors but it is the city’s collection of spas that will thrill – Das Tegernsee Spa (Neureuther Strasse 23) has views on the lake and world-class spa treatments and detox programs. 

In winter a few hours in the train will deliver you right at the door of some of the best skiing in the world. Austria’s Kitzbühel, just three hours by train from Munich, is one of the best locations for Alpine skiing as well as hiking (preferably summer time) and has a series of brand new gondolas and ski chalets. You’d want to stay at Stanglwirt, one of the oldest resorts in the region, where fabulous food, an incredible spa (and everything else) is some of the best on the planet. The Reiki is life-shifting and the old traditional bar is where you want to sit to meet locals.