Meet me in St. Louis
It’s in the middle of the country and not often thought of as a destination to visit. Let’s change that.
Nina Chanel Abney's gorgeous painting, on the outside of a house in the middle of the city, for The Walls Off Washington
I recently wrote a gorgeous piece on St. Louis and the music scene there for SPIN - you can read that right here. Also, you can read this STL article and other fabulous articles on Wonderlust Travel…brain child of legend Bob Guccione, check it out…
And so…
Wondering what you should do this weekend? Well, St. Louis is waiting for you. The city has a cool factor without being hipster-y and pretentious — right, I have your attention now, don’t I. Nelly, Ike and Tina, Miles Davis, Chuck Berry, Donny Hathaway, Lalah Hathaway, Angela Winbush, Michael McDonald and even Josephine Baker are from here, giving the city it’s musical patina and ballast.
And it shows. St Louis is a jazz-soul-R&B city, filled with music history for you to discover, plus an incredible, vibrant underground (literally underground) basement scene I am going to challenge you to uncover for yourself. (It’s the best way! And the scene is fluid. Ask around.)
Here’s a quick itinerary, should you need it. Of course, no itinerary is an option. You can’t really go wrong. (Unless you’re trying to score Crack at 2:00 in the morning, that will almost definitely go wrong.)
What to do, what to do?
Firstly, the Pulitzer Arts Foundation and the Contemporary Art Museum, and they are side by side in the arts district. Also in the neighborhood is Kranzberg Arts Foundation (a non-profit foundation dedicated to promoting arts, music, jazz, theater, and culture in St. Louis) and they are one of the biggest players in the local scene. Find whatever they’re putting up when you’re there and you’re set to meet interesting and interested humans.
Tip: if you find yourself there next (or any) mid-September grab tickets to Music at the Intersection, Kranzberg’s annual, world-class music festival masquerading as an epic block party. Multiple stages feature everything from trending hip-hop and R&B to deep heritage jazz and blues, in an explorable urban footprint lined with public art and large-scale murals (The Walls Off Washington).
Next up try the Missouri History Museum in Forest Park, where the St. Louis Sound exhibit was on display last year (it’s worth looking that up) and St. Louis Art Museum.
Where can you stay?
Well there is always the Four Seasons right by the arch if that appeals. (I didn’t care about the arch, but loved the hotel) The restaurant, Cinder House, is run by one of the city’s James Beard Foundation-winning chefs.
For a more boutique option right in the Arts District, the Angad Arts Hotel is fun and colorful. If you want gorgeous Italian food (the amazing Casa Don Alfonso) and to stay outside of the main city limits, there is the Ritz Carlton. But the surprise pick here is the Angad.
In a pickle: buy them all, all y’all!
I’m hungry!
Fiddlehead Fern Cafe has healthy food, if you’re so inclined. For coffee, the intriguingly named Quarrelsome Coffee will do a mean pour over. High Low in the arts district has a spot for laptops and happy humans — hang out there. If you just need a drinking hole, Platypus or Takashima Record Bar on Manchester Avenue will keep you hydrated and aim to keep you behaving badly. Then there is ‘ssippi – let’s call it a heavenly wine bar with snacks. Broadway Oyster Bar is perfect to fill up and meet locals.
I need to get out more.
Oh, that’s Honky Tonk STL, the dive bar of all dive bars. Maybe I could live there. Maybe you could too. And if you need some DRAG in your life start here at Bastille in Soulard.
One more magical thing?
Tom Ray, AKA “Papa Ray,” who is a professional DJ and owner of St. Louis’ Vintage Vinyl. Go to the store to browse, it’s a great store, but most of all to seek him out and get him to tell you some great music stories. He has them.
great! i was recently featured in the river front times of st. louis for my role as a historical character in oppenheimer. i've always been curious about what it's like to stay in an art museum hotel, like the 21c museum hotel there.