This week 36 hours in the NYT covered Marfa, but I have my own version too.
A city that perfectly blends art, history, culture and creativity all in the high desert of the Trans-Pecos in Far West Texas. From cowboy chic to contemporary art, this quirky city of just 2000 people has a little something for everyone.
An introduction
Founded in the early 1880s as a railroad water spot, today the tiny city of Marfa is a hedonist’s oasis. It has only grown to a mere 2000 people with one blinking traffic light, but international seekers of art and imagination make it bloom all year round. Known for its celebration of minimalist art, historical architecture and the Marfa ghost lights, the city is eccentric in all the best ways.
Marfa’s remoteness and mystifying cool factor is what has brought people here ever since the artist Donald Judd set up camp here in the early 1970’s. Today the world’s avant-gardists, lovers of the tumbleweed besprinkled high desert, and all the chic folk come to mingle, take in the fresh dry air and conceive fresh compositions. So, suspend any disbelief you may have, and come along to uncover something mysterious for yourself.
Marfa is different. It is simply a state of mind. Many have tried to bestow it with titles, but the little city shrugs it all off. It’s a creative emblem, a cultural icon. Mostly holding off giant national chain brands (minus that Dairy Queen people frequent for selfies), the city revels in small locally owned businesses and holds its residents accountable to keep it offbeat. It boasts these gorgeous white low rise buildings with blue tiles and iconic typography - setting it up for a film set or photographer’s reverie.
And as much as it is a teensy place tucked away in very western Texas, it is where to come for a free spirited way of seeing the world. Some may even refer to it as America’s coolest art area - desperately trying to capture the spirit. But it’s more ephemeral than just a whereabouts, as it contains multitudes of mysterious creative zeal. Plus they have all this wide open space that is altogether good for anyone’s soul.
The Magical Location
Tucked up in the high desert of the Trans-Pecos (West of the Pecos River) between the Davis Mountains and Big Bend National Park is where blowy Marfa hides away. Verily mountains and open desert is on all four horizons as far as the eye can travel - to the north these Davis Mountains, the Chinati Mountains to the southwest and the Chisos Mountains to the southeast. This desert grassland locale is also designated as Far West Texas. And aptly so, as the closest airport (El Paso) is at least 3 hours of driving northwest, the Mexican border is 38m/60km away, and the metropolis of Houston is at least 9 hours drive south east. This also means it is without light pollution and part of the darkest skies in the country. The town is also within the heavily climate change affected area known as the Chihuahuan Desert, with zero humidity. And yes it is a skimpy - but so walkable - 1.6 sq mi/4.1 km2.
A Little History Lesson
Marfa (Russian for Martha) dates back to the early 1880s when the Southern Pacific railroads needed a spot for water and the freight trains required a place for all their storage desires. Historians like to point out that the tiny city was named after Marfa Strogoff, a character in the Jules Verne novel Michael Strogoff. The site has evolved over and over again but never bursting at the seams. It had a mini growth spurt as the Marfa Army Air Field (now defunct) served as a training depot for pilots during World World II. But not too much happened here even though many German prisoners of war arrived, and chemical mortar training was conducted also.
Cattle ranching is what kept the town going economically for the next few decades of its existence. That is until the ultra famous cast and crew of the Warner Brothers cult film Giant poured into town. The A list stars included Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor (who supposedly had all her meals flown in daily from Los Angeles), James Dean and Dennis Hopper. And this was not the last affair Marfa had with Hollywood, in recent years Oscar winners No Country For Old Men and There Will Be Blood were also shot here. Rumor in town is that the remake of The Lone Ranger will be shot locally in the coming years.
But its current bohemian fame was cemented when the minimalist artist Donald Judd decamped from New York in 1973. In fact at first he discovered and fell in love with Marfa 30 years earlier as a construction foreman in the Army Corps of Engineers. Wanting a quieter place to work, Judd rushed into town to buy and fix up various buildings. Very soon after that the art world started to toy with this little frolic of a desert hideaway as an emerging artist’s colony away from the bright lights of the big cities. Judd had the support of the Dia Art Foundation and was able to purchase the former Fort D.A. Russell, which he transformed into permanent large-scale collections of art works ranging from steel to concrete.
Originally these buildings were envisioned to include works by Judd, John Chamberlain and Dan Flavin, but the museum became so popular that they were able to expand to include works by artists like Carl Andre, Ingolfur Arnarrson, Hiroshi Sugimoto, Ilya Kabakov, Roni Horn, Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen, David Rabinowitch, and John Wesley. And suddenly the art world had its curious eye on Marfa. The Judd Museum opened to the public in 1986 as the contemporary Chinati Foundation (a 340 acre site which includes former army barracks) and consequently the Judd Foundation was established by his family to preserve all the work and to forge benevolent art programming still going strong today.
In the meantime, the mysterious and unsolved Marfa ghost lights (glowing orbs outside of town out on the U.S. Route 90 highway) have also brought a steady flow of beholders. And lucky for everyone Marfa has strict regulations that ensure the night skies cannot be befouled by street lights, backyard lights and pesky projector lights. The Native Americans of the area pronounce them to be fallen stars. But they are - like the town of Marfa - evasive, and unpredictable. Perhaps it may just be a refraction of light caused by different air temperatures, or perchance visiting aliens from who knows where? But whatever they are, it all added to the mystifying air of Marfa.
The current state of affairs
Unlike so many demised pioneer towns of the west, off beat Marfa has evolved into its own wee boomtown. Today the city attracts cowboys and cowgirls lying low at saloons with cold libations in hand, the cognoscenti of the artworld doing retreats or residences, plus inquisitive pleasure seekers of an alternative way of living. The crumbling buildings have now been bought up and young creatives coming from all over the planet are buying them to fix them up and to open small businesses from distilleries, to city wineries, to, of course, hip bars and fine dining restaurants but also creative spaces for locals to partake in art and peruse art at once. And don’t miss the tumbleweeds, the prickly pear cactus and mesquite trees, they are still here also.
And who are Marfa’s inhabitants?
Marfa is eclectic if nothing else. Nowadays, there is a healthy mix of Marfans who have been here for generations - farmers, ranchers and their families. Plus some native American tribes (as Marfa is the traditional, ancestral, unceded territory of the Jumano Nation, Lipan Apache, and Mescalero Apache) are also here. The original locals cruise around town with everyone else, end up at the saloons and have the best stories to tell about all the shapeshifting Marfa has done over the last almost 150 years. The rest of town is made up of artists, musicians, Brooklyn types, plus a revolving door of celebrity disciples (Beyonce famously came into town on her private jet causing quite the stir). And now that the town plays host to its very own international art fair, the open-all-year-round Marfa Invitational, a whole new demographic is also coming around. Of course the hummingbirds, and grazing cattle are also all over, not to mention the accompanying mobile, resident population of Pronghorn (antilope).
Other information that might be useful
It is certainly the last frontier - so prepare yourself to be in a magical time kink. Needless to say, there is also the altitude of the high desert (roughly 4685 ft/1428 m above sea level), the intense sunshine, plus the dry air. A lot for any visitor to handle.
Everyone speaks English here, or a magic dialect that’s best left misunderstood. It’s a small place and therefore you want to make sure you come prepared. They mostly have all the trappings of a bigger city, but to be realistic in your needs and desires is often highly advised. Also note that Marfa Time is how things run here, the best bet is to accept and enjoy exactly that. It’s a real place (not just a selfie station) with people wanting to appreciate the remoteness and the quiet - so keep that in mind as you venture around. It may feel like a twilight zone, but that is exactly why you came here in the first place.
Two tips for before you come, and one for during your visit
One: Watch the series I love Dick, starring Kathryn Hahn and Kevin Bacon, before you venture west to Marfa. It is based on the novel of the same name by Chris Kraus. It will give you just enough insight into a version of the city to whet your appetite.
And Two: You may notice that the Donald Judd legacy is strong here, you may even see bumper stickers that read I heart JUDD or WWDJD (What Would Donald Judd Do?) so do a little homework so that his artwork can come alive easily.
And Three: Please watch for snakes, they’re literally all over and love basking in the sunshine.
What & where to eat in Marfa
For a small city in the Texas high desert, there is plenty to feast on. The Marfa melange of eateries have a focus on locally grown ingredients and regional specialities. And simply strolling around town will reveal them all.
Just Elegant Enough, but Accessible
Cochineal
Here you’re in luck, an elevated but congenial restaurant with seasonal ingredients giving a nod to its western Texas roots. And Chef Alexandra Gates, a 2020 James Beard semi-finalist, focuses her efforts on sustainability and sourcing. Much of their ingredients come from their own garden, or from farmers and ranchers throughout Texas. They run a weekly evolving prix fixe menu. Somewhere between wild hunted nilgai (an antelope) served with herring aioli plus American caviar, or free range bison you will find their magic. End your meal with a tarte fromage with dried persimmons. They can accommodate any dietary restrictions, note them in your reservation inquiry. Who will love it: Real foodies looking for award-winning chefs. 107 West San Antonio Street www.cochinealmarfa.com
Margaret’s in Marfa
A dinner diner in far West Texas is how they describe themselves. But really, it is without airs and a delicious homage to their home cook Nana - who always made sure everyone was getting fed. The relaxed ambience is just right for a night out, crowned with some dim lighting and velvety music. It is comfort food with just the right amount of finesse. Start with some beet pickled deviled eggs and wild boar sausage, and move on to heartfelt spaghetti Bolognese, a gooey eggplant parm, or just a simple cheddar tuna melt. It will feel like you are eating at your grandmother’s house when you’re ending off your meal with a key lime pie complete with a giant dollop of cream and a ruby red cherry on top. Who will love it: Epicures of real home-cooked meals. 103 North Highland Avenue (Inside the Brite Building) www.margaretsinmarfa.com
Jett’s Grill
The iconic Hotel Paisano - where Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor and James Dean stayed during the filming of the movie Giant in 1955 - is where to find this restaurant and all the nostalgia you need. If you want to have a decent sit down meal with the well heeled, followed by lounging at the fire, this is the perfect evening setting. They are known for their giant black Angus burger and pistachio crusted sirloin steaks. But they have an array of generous salads and vegetable options if you’re so inclined. Take your cheesecake dessert to the historic fireplace, or outside to the firepit to chat with cowboys and cowgirls under the stars. Who will love it? Old Hollywood fans pining for the olden past. The Hotel Paisano, 207 Highland Street hotelpaisano.com
LaVenture
Newer in town is this New American cuisine sweet spot inside the brick-laden Hotel Saint George. The seasonal menu here leans heavily into the southwestern locale inspiration and thus small plates would be the way to go. From elevated cheesy dips and fried wings, to generous baked crab cakes and wood fired vegetables of all kinds. Since the nights can be chilly in the high desert, a warm chocolate ganache cake may just do the trick to keep your flame going. Or simply dip into their array of mezcal cocktails, with zero proof libations available. It gets busy here so make a reservation. Who will love it? Anyone who loves to do serious people-watching. 105 South Highland Avenue https://www.marfasaintgeorge.com/
The Sentinel
Although this is home to two newspapers, The Big Bend Sentinel and Presidio International, it is also a fantastic restaurant, bar, coffee shop, plus exciting event venue. Their large adobe house building is over a century old and recently received a good new lick of paint. In terms of food they make everything fresh from authentic tacos and enchiladas to an always selection of creative salads. With every item sold - including retail and events - money goes to local, independent journalism. Order food, and then pop over to grab a seasonal drink at the bar - like a rose cardamom iced matcha - and find a seating spot to plonk down at a shady table in the midst of the native plants. Their happy hour brings all the locals from their hideouts, so not to be missed. Who will love it? Appreciators of small town quirks. 209 West El Paso Street www.thesentinelmarfa.com
Alta Marfa Winery and Vineyard
This is a petite city winery making unusual wines and growing their own grapes in the chilly Texas Davis Mountains AVA. As they say their wines are “spontaneously fermented, unfiltered and free of additives” which basically means they may even be slightly cloudy. Although it is much more wine focused here, there are always snacks and a roster of food pop-ups and special dinner events to accompany their weekend only hours. Try their eccentric tasting flights that pair sublimely with their array of tinned fish, crackers, cheese and more. If you had to pick just one, let it be their “Microcult” carbonated white wine from 100% Cinsault variety. It will be an unusual conversation starter. Who will love it? Alternative wine connoisseurs. 1305 West San Antonio Street www.altamarfa.com
Buzzy and Very Casual
Marfa Burrito
This cash only joint is a morning staple in the city - and probably one of the best places where you can meet anyone and everyone. There is no website (hours are 7:00 to 13:00 and they’re closed on Sundays) and the signage is discreet, but rest assured you will find all the breakfast favorites you heart desires. The owner is, afterall, known as the “Burrito Queen of Marfa.” Your choices with a freshly rolled and fired tortilla vary from beans and cheese, to spicy chorizo and eggs - all served with salsa. Locals will tell you it is a celebrity spotting hotspot, but really everyone coming into town peeks in. Enjoy the free coffee, because why not. Who will love it? Authentic Tex-Mex fanatics. 515 South Highland Avenue
Aster
With a speciality of daily baked goods made from scratch, here is where to get your fix. A simple low key joint with plain wooden tables, curious artworks and old folding wooden chairs is steller for breakfast or lunch with various vegetarian options. Here they have bagels with all the fixings - including classic cream cheese, hummus or seasonal veggies, or just turn it into a breakfast sandwich with eggs. Weekends this turns into a brunch spot that attracts all of town (the occasional line is worth it) - that’s when to seek out the blueberry scones and waffles. Don’t overthink it, this will satisfy. Who will love it? Vegetarians, as the options are endless. 215 North Highland Avenue www.astermarfa.com
The Water Stop
If you're looking for an unpretentious roadside stop with concrete floors and a hearty menu, this is your place. They are known for their whole, half or quarter rotisserie chicken served with tahini garlic and plenty of citrus. From the kitchen they have Tex-Mex scramble for vegetarians, or a little twisted fried chicken waffle topped with strawberries and cream. They also have an ever whirling selection of rose cider on tap that pairs perfectly with perusing their cabinets of curiosities. Who will love it? Anyone quirky, will appreciate all their oddities here. 1300 W San Antonio Street (Highway 90) https://www.facebook.com/thewaterstopmarfa/
Para Llevar
Their name is Spanish for take out - but you can also sit in the cactus garden. They call themselves a bodega or a deli, but offer more than the usual fare which also includes a well stocked wine shop. They have a wood burning oven and a small kitchen and it is from there where they serve lunch, brunch and dinner. A prickly pear margarita pairs well with their array of seasonal sourdough pizzas and interesting salads. And yes they have a gluten-free pizza option as well. If you want to take home interesting sweets, souvenirs, bake at home lasagnas or a curated charcuterie plate it’s also always available. Who will love it? Sourdough starter moms and dads. 203 East San Antonio Street www.marfaparallevar.com
Convenience West BBQ
On Fridays and Saturdays this is where the city of Marfa swarms to eat quality barbeque - until it sells out, and yes, it always does. You could always pre-order a pickup to go to ensure you get your hands on the good stuff. The main offering involves soft umami spare ribs, smoky crispy roast chicken, extra slow cooked brisket and experimental sausages. Everything is served with corn or flour tortillas and crunchy pickles, plus the oft-changing side dishes are worth exploring. Perhaps cornbread, plain pinto beans and dark leafy greens, or fire roasted carrot “dip dip” (ask them about the story behind that) with Fritos. Grab a seat at the long communal tables as you devour the aromas of all that smoky meat goodness. Who will love it? Anyone who loves food that comes with a story and a lot of smokiness. 1141 West San Antonio Street www.conveniencewest.com
Big Buddha Bakery
If you’re in need of a wood fired sourdough pizza with wildly interesting toppings, Big Buddha Bakery comes up with the goods, and some. They are open on Mondays and Saturdays only, thus it is a good idea to pre order, so as not to be disappointed. Try a vegan option that comes with Big Bend Fungi Company’s local mushrooms marinated in a blend of Lebanese spices and liberal splashes of truffle oil. Or their BBQ brisket pizza with the smoky melt-in-the-mouth brisket of Convenience West smothered with barbeque sauce. Your pizza pie may come out in a heart shape, just let it be a surprise. Order an oversized drink, sit outside in the courtyard, and enjoy all that is good. Who will love it? Mushroom junkies, vegans and pizza heads. 108 East San Antonio Street www.bigbuddhabakery.com
Do Your Thing
If you need a great artisanal coffee plus a little something organic to eat, this is where to go. This third wave coffee shop attached to an artist collective has a simple philosophy of coffee, toast and magic. The toast mentioned ranges from a za’atar strewn avocado, to simple butter, almond butter or jam. The magic I would say is sitting outside and watching the array of humans floating by. They host barista-in-residences so be sure to nerd out with them on coffee bean origin. Who will love it? Coffee devotees interested in fair trade coffee. 201 East Dallas Street (in the rear of the Lumberyard), https://doyourthing.us/
Buns and Roses
A quirky florist coupled with an eatery is quintessential Marfa. Here you can sit amongst the blooms and order an inexpensive meal. From breakfast burritos, huevos rancheros all the way to cheesy grits topped with fried eggs. Also try their playful burgers (bean burgers for vegetarians) and quesadillas. It’s dog friendly all over town, but here they prepare special doggie treats for your snoot. As you head out, grab an extra glazed donut with its hole to eat on the road. They serve all these treats only until 13:00. Who will love it? Vegetarians for the fantastic veggie burgers. 1613 West San Antonio Street https://www.facebook.com/bunsnrosesmarfa/?locale=en_GB
Marfa Spirit Co.
If you have a mission to meet creative locals moreover have a soulful drink to boot, this is the place to venture to. And especially on a Friday night when they have a simple steak night. Their recommendation is to check their Instagram page weekly to see what their menus are doing as they run it like a kaleidoscope of delicious eating. This is the only distillery in town and they specialize in organic sustainable Mexican Sotol - a liquor made from a shrub called desert spoon. They recommend drinking it straight to appreciate the herbaceous flavors, but they also serve it as innovative cocktails. Sit out on the porch and come enjoy what everyone terms, Marfa Time. Who will love it? Imbibers that are very experimental in their tastes. 320 West El Paso Street www.themarfaspirit.com
For Ones In The Know
Planet Marfa
Nothing says Marfa more than this place. An array of ever changing pop ups bringing some luscious cuisine to the bewitching desert. The latest is Brodo and Big Buddha Bakery doing a cool collaboration and serving up fried Sicilian chicken, wondrous pizzas and a motley of salads starting at 14:00. Some may call it an event space, or dance hall, others even say beer garden, but this is where Marfa unfurls itself. Here there are always game nights, often spontaneous karaoke nights, and once in a while an impromptu music gig from a famous singer that may just surprise you. Keep checking their website and social pages to get the latest shenanigans. Who will love it? Anyone spontaneous. 200 South Abbot Street planetmarfa.com
A Few Food Items You Simply Can’t Miss in Marfa
Vegan Sourdough Pizza
At Big Buddha Bakery (and as a special collaboration at Planet Marfa) is where to find a vegan pizza with sourdough from an ancient starter. They liberally throw on Big Bend Fungi Company’s local mushrooms that have been marinated in a blend of Lebanese spices. And then to top this off they add liberal splashes of truffle oil.
Breakfast Burritos
Here at Marfa Burrito, the breakfast burritos are extra sized, perfectly charred and even Matthew McConaughey loves it here. It’s not expensive and it's incredibly delicious. The bean and cheese vegetarian option with extra hot sauce is quintessential Marfa cuisine.
Spaghetti Bolognese
If you’re hungry from grandma’s best dish, Margaret’s in Marfa has just the thing. A homemade, perfectly seasoned (with secret chef’s ingredient - they will tell you if you ask) red pasta sauce and al dente spaghetti. Slurp it up and watch the passing show.
TIP: Make reservations at restaurants if possible, Marfa is a small town in the remote desert so things can run out. But don’t worry they never run out of drinks though, so you’re in good hands there.
“In Marfa the locavore food scene might be small but it is certainly south-west eclectic. Whether you’re vegan, a very late riser for fine coffee only, a food truck lover or wanting a buzzy restaurant scene night on the town - there is something for everybody”
Must See
Marfa has the new and the old. There are numerous galleries celebrating contemporary art, many performance spaces brimming with activities, and then plenty of history to keep you well occupied.
Although Marfa isn’t very big, there is enough to keep a schedule deliciously jammed. It’s a wild creative little town so things slant towards art, design and imagination. There is the rich history, for which the stalwarts have created memorable activities available to anyone. And then there is the merry-go-round of newcomers bringing fresh flavoring into town. Note that Marfa is a pop-up heaven so there are always new things striking and disappearing, chat to locals at the saloons and eateries for up-to-date things that strike your fancy. Also keep in mind that Marfa runs on its own schedule, so opening times and days aren’t always precise. They don’t call it the capital of quirk for nothing.
Chinati Foundation
The minimalist art museum that brought the world’s attention to Marfa is a good place to start exploring this little Texas town. The main attraction is settled on 340 acres (1.4 km2) of land on the site of former Fort D. A. Russell, with additional buildings dotted around town. The museum is based on the ideas of New York artist Donald Judd, its founder. Judd absconded to Marfa in the 1970s (after his first brief stint in the Army 30 years prior) and brought with him a certain minimalist sensibility. And so, here you can find emphasis on contemporary and modern art where its surroundings are inextricably linked. You can stroll around Judd’s 100 untitled works in mill aluminum and 15 untitled works in concrete. In addition to Judd there are also works by sculptor John Chamberlain and artist Dan Flavin (known for his fluorescent light fixtures) and various others. The Chinati Foundation, along with the Central Marfa Historic District in Marfa, was officially added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2022. It’s worth spending time here and a guided tour will offer deserving context for the rest of your visit. 1 Cavalry Row www.chinati.org
Judd Foundation
Most of artist Donald Judd’s work dwells in the Chinati Foundation. But Judd, the human, is best understood at his residence and work spaces in town, where everything else is housed, like his extensive collection of books, a winter garden and a pool. His family - who runs the foundation - has lovingly cared for these spaces (also his Spring Street residence in SoHo, New York City). It runs as a non-profit organization maintaining and preserving Judd’s living and working footprints - with a massive focus on developing educational initiatives. Since there are multiple buildings and tracts downtown - including the Art and Architecture Studios, the Cobb House and Whyte Building, plus so much more - the best way to see it all is on their pre-booked guided visits. It covers everything from Judd’s early paintings dating back to the 1950s, to his impressive collection of modernist furniture and twentieth century creators. It’s a treasure trove of enchantment. Guided visits start at the Architecture Studio (the former Marfa National Bank) at 101 North Highland Avenue. Be prepared to give this multiple hours during your time in Marfa. 104 South Highland Avenue (Print Building for the offices) juddfoundation.org
Prada Marfa
This is a site-specific art installation by the Berlin based artist duo, Elmgreen & Dragset. In fact they originally had wanted to place the sculpture elsewhere and were interested in a Prada Nevada, but failed to find support there. And so lucky we have it here in Marfa. They describe this as a pop architectural land art project. And thus, a Prada store that doesn’t actually sell anything - plonked outside of town on Highway 90 in remote land. And it only allows you to peek inside through the windows, as the doors don’t open. The items on display are shoes, nicknacks and bags from Prada’s 2005 fall/winter collection chosen by Miuccia Prada herself. The concept is that this 2005 installation is permanent, and will eventually weather and degrade. Perhaps this is the ultimate Marfa pun - a social commentary of how we live, about capitalism, luxury branding, commercialism and gentrification. Visit and ponder. Address: U.S. Route 90 (1.4 miles/2.3 km northwest of Valentine, and about 26 miles/42 km northwest of Marfa)
Giant cut outs
In 1956 Hollywood stormed into town - including Elizabeth Taylor and James Dean plus all their fabled entourages - filming the blockbuster western Giant. The film was about a brood of rich Texas ranchers challenged by the evolving times of the fast arrival of big oil. And ergo, decades later the artist John Cerney donated a camp mural of the Hollywood stars to the city of Marfa. In fact every year, Cerney reaches out to a different city and offers to donate an art piece to the community. The enormous pieces, constructed of plywood cut-outs, were placed right where the filming happened on the side of Highway 90 outside of Marfa. Dean was nominated for an Oscar for his role in the movie, but died tragically in an accident on a California highway before the film was even released. Don’t miss the music element as Cerney collaborated with singer-songwriter Michael Nesmith to incorporate some country tunes (powered by solar) at the site. 8 miles west of town on Highway 90 (can’t miss it).
Ballroom Marfa
A revolving array of exhibition programming awaits at this contemporary museum. What started as a space that advocates for freedom of artistic expression, has evolved marvelously into a well curated and freely commissioning art museum. Even though they do not collect themselves, they run this as a museum and performance space that is enthralled by metamorphosis. The expanse itself is a 1920s era ballroom and is often home to an intellectual debate - fed, of course, by visitors and locals alike. Some of the most impressive and poignant projects to have been commissioned here include stone circle (2018), a semi-permanent site-specific large outdoor public installation by Haroon Mirza, Rafa Esparza’s performance on the south lawn of the White House that challenged oppressive architectures of American power called Bust: indestructible columns (2019), as well as The Marfa Triptych (2012 – 2016), a three-part musical portrait of West Texas by composer Graham Reynolds. This is one of those enriching come-and-see-what-is-on places in town, so just open your mind and join the Marfa dialogues. Their latest escapes include free screenings of art films in the evenings, certainly worth joining for. Although entrance is free, a donation is reasonable.108 East San Antonio Street https://www.ballroommarfa.org/
The Marfa Ghost Lights
Although this is not a guarantee, it certainly is worth spending some time trying to at least figure it out a little bit. Mysterious - and not yet solved - these glowing spheroids reportedly spotted outside of town have fascinated locals and explorers for decades.The local Native Americans even call them fallen stars. In the evening - when most of the city’s lights are low due to the regulations of town - drive yourself out into the desert to the official viewing platform (or elsewhere) with snacks and libations and see what happens. Even if you see nothing, the adventure is worth the trouble and then spending time asking locals about their theories about them will endlessly fascinate. Some say it’s certainly UFOs, or pesky government meddling, others stick to a perhaps-fable about some refraction of light caused by different air temperatures. Whatever it may be, it’s quintessential Marfa. Odd. 9 miles east of town on U.S. 90 highway (official platform)
Holocaust and Historic Model Ship Museum
If you’re in the mood for some storytelling and admirable craftsmanship, this is where to spend a little gainful time. Run by creator and owner, Kim Thornsburg, this one of a kind museum features over a 100 models of actual ships that carried Jews to safety as they escaped Nazi persecution during World War. Thornsburg, a model shipwright, has spent his life creating this unique space filled with plank-on-frame model ships and is an absolute history boon. His collection has a particular emphasis on the Aliyah Bet rescue ships from 1939-1945, when Jews immigrated illegally to Palestine from Europe. As part of the museum is the Holocaust section with banned and censored books, estate sale rare items plus a trove of family heirlooms. Marvel at the unusual craft and then stay for the harrowing stories about escaping extermination camps. 901 East Oak Street https://marfa-holocaust-model-ship-museum.business.site/
Greasewood Gallery
Tucked into the Hotel Paisano is a philosophical special curated space for local artists. Here the curators find local artists and showcase their best work to the world - from sculpture, to oil and watercolor paintings and photography it is an ever reshuffling of fascinating art. They often turn the hotel’s grand ballroom into seasonal exhibits for these artists, so it’s worth keeping an eye on the website for all the latest. A recent show includes a series by the artist Martha Hughes entitled Setups, courtesy of Rule Gallery, a local favorite. Another recent show consisted of oil and watercolor paintings of the Chihuahuan Desert by the artist David Loren Bass. 207 Highland Street (inside the Hotel Paisano) hotelpaisano.com
Marfa and Presidio County Museum
Focused on all things local, this little museum covers everything from Native American artifacts, to mining history, to pioneer tools and some. The city of Marfa - although so small - has evolved so much from water stop, to military outpost, to ranching mecca, to the hottest movie setting, and today as the cool art destination. The museum covers things good and bad, and tells the story of native tribes, all the way to the arrival of hipsters too. The museum owes its success to a local history teacher and historian, Lee Glascock Bennett, who with the help of her students and the local community, created the space. They collected historical items and photos and raised money through many fundraisers, and today the museum is in the historic Humphris-Humphreys home in downtown Marfa. They also run the Marfa Museum Thrift Store (in the Marfa Activity Center building, south of Coffield Park between Ridge Street and Mesa Street) where unusual and fascinating items are forever coming and going. 110 West San Antonio Street https://marfamuseum.org/
Frida Kahlo mural
Although the Mexican artist Frida Kahlo probably never spent any time in the little gem that is Marfa, she would have appreciated everything it has become. Known for her sentiment, her surrealism and her ability to see into your soul, Kahlo is a genius. She appreciated Mexican artifacts and landscapes and turned her pain into her work. And that’s why her face is associated with creative serums world wide. The mural is one of many in town, but iconic for its color and the words big auto parts. Wandering around this little town this is a spot you will pass over and over again during your time here - and it is a joyful reminder of Marfa’s artistic soul. There isn’t anywhere to sit at the mural but you can - with a libation in hand - stand nearby and ponder your own creative incarnations. Locals often toast Kahlo as they veer by. 310 West San Antonio Street
Presidio County Courthouse
Perhaps it's the soft pink color that will attract you first. Or perchance, the inside’s pecan wood. But whatever your interest, the courthouse is worth exploring inside and out. In fact, it’s hard to miss as it is visible from pretty much everywhere in Marfa. The brick and stone building is a three-story Second Empire design with prominent Italianate (a favored 19th-century building style emanating 16th-century Italian Renaissance architecture) detailing. The dramatic courtroom is situated on the second floor and gorgeous for a brief marveling at. There is a central domed tower in octagonal shape with gigantic windows and this very tower is covered in gorgeous shingles that serve as ornamental detailings. On top is a Goddess of Justice statue that is mounted, but her scales and blade of her sword are absent. Rumor in town is that a citizen - unhappy with local governance - shot it right off. Classic Marfa. In 1977, the courthouse was added to the National Register of Historic Places. Climb to the top of the stairs and you will be able to see the entire Marfa and the remoteness that engulfs it all around. 300 Highland Street https://www.co.presidio.tx.us/
Marfa Public Library
With over 20,000 volumes of books and a notable Texana collection, this library is a bibliophile’s delight. The Marfa Public Library kicked off its life in 1947 when the Marfa Lions Club and the Marfa Study Club came together to establish a library for the local community. With recent renovations and additions they have added a little theater (where you can catch a screening of locally filmed movies and documentaries about Marfa), a pleasant courtyard and a community hangout area. It’s a good place to meet locals - whether at the free Zumba classes, meditation sessions, and drum circles or, certainly, at Gary’s movie nights (sign up for his email list before your trip to get all the latest details). Local darlings, Marfa Public Radio and Marfa Book Company also do interesting programming - from poetry slams to denizen storytelling. It’s a perfect glimpse into local life here in Marfa, a peek into the extraordinary ordinary. 115 East Oak Street https://www.marfapubliclibrary.org/.
Ayn Foundation
Established in 1993 with the Arnulf Rainer Museum in New York, the soaring space of the Ayn Foundation is focused on comprehensive extra large scale projects by famous international artists. Here you can see Andy Warhol’s largest and most exhaustive series, The Last Supper. Warhol fashioned more than 100 paintings and works on paper, centered around Leonardo Da Vinci’s famed opus at the rectory of the Santa Maria Stella Grazie in Milan, Italy. Jesus paired with a shirtless man with the words, Be a Somebody with a Body will greet you first. Also worth seeing is another portentous work, this one by German artist Maria Zerres. Titled September Eleven, this elegy consists of 18 paintings completed during the period of the 9/11 terrorist attacks of the Twin Towers in New York City where the artist lived. 107-109 North Highland Avenue (Brite Building) https://www.aynfoundation.com/
Hacienda Del Arcón / Building 98
This is the headquarters for the International Woman’s (SIC) Foundation. Formerly a club for officers and bachelor quarters, today it acts as a training center for artist development. Treasures uncovered here are two rooms of oil-on-plaster murals painted by German prisoners of war who interned at the camp during World War II. Depicting scenes of the natural terrain and southwest culture, it’s a fascinating look into the forced camaraderie of war, and this isolated place in the south western Chihuahuan Desert part of nowhere Texas. Today the space is often used for special events open to the public, which continues the building’s artistic legacy by hosting female artists. The future goal is to create an artist studio plus artist in residency programming. In the meantime, marvel at the enormous ball room and restoration of the club complete with original wooden bar, mirrored walls and brass detailing all over. It is by appointment only here so make sure you do that before your visit. https://www.internationalwomansfoundation.org/about-building-98-hacienda-del-arcon/
Stardust Motel Sign
This is a graveyard for a single neon sign that existed decades past. Although there is no trace of the motel indicated on the peeling sign, the iconic sign remains. The tall sign with a star right at the helm was actually built into the shape of the San Jacinto Monument in La Porte (a different Texas town). Today the retro sign actually guards the entrance to a local RV park. It’s another one of those quirky Marfa things that come with rumor and oddball delight. When you spend enough time hanging at the sign you will discover it magically still flickers at random. Perhaps, like so many Marfa sights, it is one ripe for contemplation. The iconic neon signs of Americana, now defunct and no longer a beacon of restful nights. Worth coming to photograph at night with the milky way acting as a backdrop. East driving out of town, U.S. Highway 90
Rule Gallery
With locations here and in Denver, Rule Gallery represents emerging and mid-career contemporary artists. Ranging from contemporary abstract and conceptual works, this comprises paintings, sculptures, photography, and works on paper. Artists include Eduardo E Portillo, plus Kei Ito, Dionne Lee, Rafael Soldi, and Tabitha Soren. One of the most interesting shows in this art oasis in recent years was the solo exhibition, Outtakes, by the artist Sandy Skoglund consisting of 40 years of photography and sculptural works. Rule Gallery’s choice in opening in supposedly far-from-the-art-world Marfa was based on the city’s unique energy and ambience, thus giving visitors a glimpse into the artists they champion. Since it’s one of the very few galleries in town, they pride themselves on their ability to associate with the curious - and that is exactly what Marfa is all about. 204 East San Antonio Street https://rulegallery.com/
Marfa Open Gallery
A historic 3500 sq ft / 326 sq m train depot and Quartermaster building for Camp Marfa, turned art center. During the year this serves as a gallery, community art center and hot spot for art classes, plus events like musical performances, film screenings, and such. Then, once a year they host their festival showcasing their finest work. They also proudly run an artist in residency program where creators come, make and exhibit new bodies of work, called Marfa Open AiR. Past residents include the ceramicist Heather LaFortune, plus Caroline Partamian and Ethan Primason, who over the course of their residency developed a large-scale interactive sonic collaboration inspired by the sounds of Marfa. The main floor of the gallery has these gorgeous towering ceilings in stamped tin. What makes the gallery so unique - and utterly valuable in town is their commitment to serve as an alternative support structure for young artists that can exist divorced from the more commercial system. Come and throw yourself behind all this creative juicing. 102 South Plateau Street www.marfaopen.org
Tip: Be sure to chat to local owners about fun pop-ups and once-off events, as they happen frequently and securing an invite will be a boon.
“Marfa is a small place, everything will eventually reveal itself in your time here.
Seasonal Events
Marfa is an unusual hodge podge of uniqueness. And the city’s diverse lineup of events throughout the year showcases exactly that. There is a little something for everyone - ranging from the many art focused gatherings to some quite out-there festivals, NFT focused digital art events in person, and even something for avid cyclists in the area. Plan your event carefully as these are the busy times in Marfa, but if you’re booked in advance and your heart is set on a certain theme, you will love being in town with seekers of a similar pleasure. Winter time means evenings are colder, so many of the events are clustered in the warmer months of the year.
As Marfa is a place that embraces diversity and spontaneity - consider that as your guiding North Star for visiting. You may even run into photographer, and Marfian Douglas Friedman doing some event, or perhaps a reading from local poet Eileen Myles. Just keep your eyes open and your mind open.
Marfa Invitational (May)
Known for its unparalleled platform for visionary creativity, the Marfa Invitational is the ultimate pilgrimage for lovers of the art-world. Small scale and very insidery, the art fair
ranges from contemporary art and design, to avant-garde film plus fashion. Founded in 2018 by curator and artist Michael Phelan, the Invitational is an independent not for profit arts and culture foundation. In addition to exhibitors like Nino Mier Gallery, Over The Influence and The Pit, they also host featured speakers like Jerry Saltz, the art critic from New York Magazine. Tickets to special speakers, plus dinners (which in the past had fashion designer Cynthia Rowley) are available by booking the VIP option. They keep the programming under wraps so be sure to check in periodically as you start planning your trip. https://www.marfainvitational.com/
Glitch Marfa Open House (May)
A little metaverse and NFT poking never hurt anyone, right? And so a digital, but also bricks and mortar festival called Glitch Marfa is now coming to town annually at their gallery. And it is more than an event, it is a platform that provides an analog gallery for internet objects. Previously hosted by digital gallery Art Blocks (powered by Ethereum), Glitch gathered collectors, NFT artists, investors and rubberneckers at their free and open to the public event right downtown in Marfa. The other programming at Glitch Marfa is all year round with community events, cookouts and exhibitions. Visit the website, or find them in the metaverse, for up to date information as they develop this event even further. https://www.glitchmarfa.com
CineMarfa Film Festival (June)
In addition to screening films made by more traditional visual artists, this festival also prides itself in showing rare archival and experimental cinema. Previous years include films by Lynn Sachs, who also appeared in person to discuss her work. They covered her films, Investigation of a Flame about nonviolent civil disobedience and also Carolee, Barbara and Gunvor, a portrait of a trio of esteemed experimental feminist filmmakers. They screen films throughout the multi-days at the historic Crowley Theatre in downtown Marfa and are free and open to the public. Run as a nonprofit organization, CineMarfa supports the local communities by offering opportunities to make and present films. A worthy cause to donate to via their website, or on site during the festival. Keep abreast of the latest on their website to ensure you score the free tickets.
Pride Marfa (June)
With a focus on uplifting queer voices and creativity in Far West Texas, the Marfa annual Pride event brings the whole town together in unison over a special weekend. The music-laden weekend kicks off with a family-friendly block party at the Marfa courthouse - think drag bingo, face painting and local vendors offering fare. As the sun sets in the little desert town, the celebrations meander into the late night hours with their dance party that outdoes all dance parties - right downtown. Of course, no Pride celebration is complete without a Drag Brunch (mimosas in hand) and a gigantic pool party. https://pridemarfa.org/
*Marfa Pride and the Agave Festival purposefully takes place over the same period as for people to be able to attend as many coordinated events as possible.”
Agave Fest (June)
This multi-day event happens every year in a jubilee of the agave plant and its mastery over culture through food, film, music, science and spirits. Perhaps you know the agave succulent with its spiny tips mostly from your love for tequila, thus this festival will show you that and everything else. The Agave Festival finds its genesis in indigenous cultures and they celebrate that throughout all their programming. Speaking of which it includes anthropologists, historians, artists, archaeological experts and botanists. The many events take place all over town at various participating venues. Past years included a Guided Walk at the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute, a performance by Border Savage and talks by Ballroom Marfa’s curator, Laura Copelin. Make sure you sign up for the memorable once-in-a-lifetime dinners featuring agave. The roster of regional music will keep you very busy. Register early as they sell out quickly. https://www.agavemarfa.com/
*Marfa Pride and the Agave Festival purposefully takes place over the same period as for people to be able to attend as many coordinated events as possible.
Viva Big Bend (July)
This more-than-75-shows strong music festival is hosted across multiple cities and venues over four days. And the venues include not only Marfa, but also Alpine, Marathon, Terlingua, and Fort Davis. In Marfa, the Lost Horse saloon and Planet Marfa is where all the action takes place. It’s a showcase of the independent spirit of the area and attendees love the open air, and the natural beauty all around. The music here is enraptured by Texas-roots country, Tex-Mex, folk and blues - acts include Sir Woman and Bright Light Social Hour. Every year for over a decade, this festival gets bigger and bigger and thousands of people trek in to enjoy. Make sure you come prepared and ready for a serious party time. Vivabigbend.com
Marfa Lights Festival (September)
The Marfa Chamber of Commerce presents their annual weekend that is the Marfa Lights Festival as part of their free programming for the public. Taking place at the historic Presidio County Courthouse, the festival is a wink wink nudge nudge to Marfa’s famed ghost lights. But really it is a celebration of all things Marfa - ranging from music to art and culinary pleasures. And all the quirkiness that goes with this city. The festival includes local retailers and food venues with a Saturday parade complete with grand marshall from a local indigenous tribe. Some of the many activities include Marfa Live Arts original plays, regional bands and Sunday morning Zumba classes. http://marfachamberofcommerce.org/menu
Trans-Pecos Festival (September)
Playing host to the festival of music and love, is El Cosmico. Known for its west Texas bohemian soul, El Cosmico is a place to stay, but also the venue for exciting happenings in magical Marfa. Past musical acts at this four day carousing include Iron & Wine, Cat Power, the El Cosmico Family Band and the Heartless Bastards. The festival is in celebration of the spirit of this remote Far West Texas area and how it has evolved into bringing people from all over the world together. Think Woodstock, but slightly smaller and a touch more effermeral. They offer live music, of course, and group sports activities, workshops and many many regional vendors with gorgeous wares and delicious feasts. They keep the line up and ticket bookings very secret so keep checking the website for up-to-date information of how to sign up and pay. Until then, just imagine yourself under the perfect night sky with all the stars out on parade whilst you’re camping. https://elcosmico.com/goings-on/events/
Marfa 100 (October)
This annual charitable bike ride is held right here in Marfa over one weekend. And every year a different entity is supported, like, for instance, the Marfa Public Library. Founded in 2010, the Marfa 100 is a 100 km/62 m in person race with a new addition of a similar virtual ride for ones who can’t make it. The options are a 100K Race or a 50K Fun Ride with an elevation gain of 2800 ft/ 854m. The ride itself is beautiful - with very little traffic to bother proceedings. It flows through ranch land and grasslands plus the views of the Chinati Mountains are just spectacular. Along the way there are cacti, wildflowers and an occasional bob cat in the distance. So pack your bike, necessary gear and be aware that weather can vary along the route, so come prepared for all conditions. https://www.marfa100.com/
Art Blocks Open House (October)
This experiential space in Marfa is exactly where to understand more about the spirit of Art Blocks - independence and creativity. What started as a non-fungible token (NFT) art gallery, has evolved into a physical space for exhibits and the community to come together. And thus their Marfa Open House, their annual somatic embodiment. Here you will be able to see art on display created on site, using Ethereum blockchain, as well as meet fellow lovers of the NFT world to discuss the intersection of technology today and art. A few times per week Art Blocks release new projects by NFT artists and during their open house they release special editions only available to attendees. Not to be missed if you’re a superfan. https://www.artblocks.io/info/about
Chinati Weekend (October)
What started in 1987 by Donald Judd as a way to invite friends and the local community to his space, has years later developed into a big to-do. A whole weekend filled with people from all over the world coming to open viewings, talks, music, special exhibitions, and meals that are offered free to all. Part of the Chinati Foundation essential - and much anticipated - programming this is the event for Donald Judd devotees. It offers attendees an out of the ordinary moment to putter around the entire Judd collection at their own pace throughout the weekend. The Open House also includes behind-the-scenes viewings of the artists in residence and various talks by the foundation's directors plus site-specific musical performances. A magical annual event not to be missed. https://chinati.org/chinati-weekend/
Marfa Open Art Festival (October)
Within the notable train depot turned art center that is Marfa Open, this is their annual showcase and festival. It is a three week long art happening where events are free and open to the public. Showing off the artists in residency, and works by artists like Nicholas Francis and Emily Esperanza to name just a few of the many. Events are hosted at the Open House, but also at site specific spots around town. Marfa Open encourages locals to participate and offers opportunities to collaborate with artists. Some of the many things to look forward to include group exhibitions, music performances, and art installations. Founded by Texan Seph Itz, a patron of the arts, his goal with Marfa Open was to support artists who needed their big break in the art world. So be it. https://www.marfaopen.org/mo-fest-20-main
A fun additional mention
Sotol Sendero (April into May)
Founded by the legends that brought us Marfa Spirit Co. this annual festival starts in high desert Marfa, speeds to the epic Copper Canyon of Chihuahua in Mexico, and back - all on two wheels. Riding the rugged desert through deep canyons with stops at sotol distilleries (a liquor made from a shrub called desert spoon) may just be your thing. It’s rough and it’s over four days - plus it’s a one way organized motorbike ride (you can pick your own route back, whether that's back to Marfa with some of the group or not). The event is kicked off with an epic night gathering at Marfa Spirit Co. in town - to meet your fellow adventurers and drink sotol. Remember you need a valid passport to cross the border. For more information about the route, lodging and food book online. https://www.instagram.com/sotolsendero/
- Tip: Local hedonists descend on town en masse, so book tickets as far in advance as possible.
Marfa is a city that has events for everything - no creative spirit is ever left out.
Voyage to get here and then getting around
Marfa is hard to explain. It is also hard to get to. But once you have arrived, you will fully understand the magic. And the whole journey will have been worth it.
Although there might be other suggestions on the Internet, the voyage to Marfa is best done by car - rented or your own - from other bigger Texas cities. Electric charging stations are available along the routes to Marfa - ranging from the fast Tesla Superchargers and others in case you’re so inclined. In Marfa itself, the El Cosmico hotel has a slower Destination Charger for Tesla cars. There are gas stations with self service options located on all major highways and in all cities and towns, with easy instructions on how to operate the pumps.
Once you get closer to Marfa, the local radio station, Marfa Public Radio/KRTS 93.5 will keep you entertained and informed. And if you’re coming in from El Paso to Marfa, Prada Marfa will be on Highway 90, on your right just before you hit the town of Valentine, Texas.
Things to note
Also note that Western Texas, call it open skies open road country, is known for its strict traffic rules. Be very aware of the speed limits as the highway patrols will definitely be monitoring. The law sets the speed limit at 70 miles per hour/ 112 km per hour. Marfa is also very close to the Mexican border and there are often Border Officials stopping cars as they drive around the area, be sure to keep valid documentation with you at all times, for your own safety. Make sure you stock up on water and snacks, the distances are great and there isn’t much in terms of availability of sustenance or emergency supplies. Winter time driving is harder and can be more dangerous, to take heed.
There are ATMs in Marfa, and there will be some along the route, but it is advisable to have some cash with you in case. That food truck pop up might only take hard cash, and you don’t want to miss out on its deliciousness.
Now. Ready yourself for endless giant skies, all that wide-open space and countless wildlife greeting you on your trip. It certainly is majestic.
You have various starting points for this trip to Marfa, here are all your best options:
Driving from El Paso
The nearest airport to Marfa is El Paso International in El Paso, Texas with an airport code of ELP. This is by far the easiest way to get to Marfa and is highly recommended. The breezy 3 hour drive (190m/306km) south to Marfa can be done at any time of day. It is very dark at night, so it is advised to arrive by sunset - to keep things easy for yourself. The road is rather straight and narrow with some tumbleweeds, and a few little towns en route to stop for snacks, a gas fill up and also water. Be careful of road runners (birds just like in the cartoons) as they will at times run across the highway. Renting a car at El Paso airport is relatively simple, but booking ahead is always recommended as it is a small city with not many options. The car rental agencies available are Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz, National, Payless and Thrifty. During seasonal events car rental prices and availability may fluctuate more than usual, so take note.
You can simply walk to the counters of these car rental agencies upon arrival at the airport as they are located in the terminal. Follow the signs for Baggage Claim and Rental Cars. They also conveniently have after-hours returns at this airport, make sure you check with your car rental agency on their terms and conditions. Worth noting is that traveling from El Paso to Marfa means you’re crossing time zones, and thus you will change from Mountain Time to Central Standard Time, losing an hour.
Driving from Dallas
Dallas is an 8 hour drive from Marfa. A longer, but also beautiful drive that is 520 miles / 837 km. You will go through desert terrain and there is a perfect stop for a meal (try the Red Oak Kitchen in Odessa). If you decide to fly into the Dallas/Fort Worth Airport (Airport code DFW) your options for rental cars are almost unlimited as it is a major hub in the U.S. They have a 24 hour car rental center and are serviced by 11 car rental companies (Advantage, Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz, National, Payless, Sixt and Thrifty). The car rental counters are located near the south entrance of the airport (2424 E. 38th Street, DFW Airport, Texas). Whether you’re dropping off the rental car or picking it up, the airport has an easy to use shuttle bus that runs 24 hours a day and departs up and down every 10-15 minutes - reaching your destination in less than 10 minutes. From landing at your terminal, follow the signs to the designated pick-up area on the lower level of the building.
Driving from San Antonio
Driving from here is roughly 6.5 hours (400 m/644 km) in a westerly direction. The small but very well equipped San Antonio Airport (with airport code SAT) has plenty of car rental options. The car rental counters are in the lobby of the airport’s car rental facilities and can easily be reached by taking the elevator or escalator to the mezzanine level in Terminal, and crossing the Sky Bridge. They are serviced by Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, FOX, Hertz, National, Payless, Sixt, and Thrifty. Note that these car rental agencies do not all operate 24-7 so make sure you’re aware when making the reservation.
Driving from Austin
This drive is 6.5 hours and pretty much a straight shot west. If you’re flying into the now more popular Austin–Bergstrom International Airport (with code AUS) you have many options for rental cars. They are serviced by Advantage, Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, FOX, Hertz, National, Payless, Thrifty and Zipcar. They do not all operate 24-7 so check details when booking. The car rental counters are right outside of the Barbara Jordan terminal - here is a map to follow. Once you have your baggage, walk through the red parking garage (covered parking) and follow the signs for Car Rental.
Driving from Houston
By far the biggest hub - and city - in the area does mean your rental car options are not limited at all. However this western drive is roughly 9 hours (600 miles/966 km) and could be via the cities Austin or San Antonio. The George Bush Intercontinental Airport (with airport code IAH) is just north of the metropolis of Houston but very easy to navigate. Houston Airport is serviced by Advantage, Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz, National, Payless, Thrifty and Zipcar. The consolidated rental car service area is approximately five minutes from the terminals by shuttle. These shuttles depart every 5 minutes from outside the Baggage Claims/Arrivals, Terminals A, B and C between 7:00 and 23:00. Between 23:00 and 7:00, it changes to every ten minutes. Terminal D is only serviced until 21:00, after that proceed to Terminal C. Follow the signs for Ground Transportation. Although the rental car counters run 24 hours a day, be sure to verify that your specific agency is always available. The address for returning a rental car is 17330 Palmetto Pines, Houston, TX 77032.
Driving from Odessa
The Midland International Air and Space Port (airport code MAF), right outside of the city of Odessa, is another option. This is just less than 3 hours from Marfa (182 m/ 293 km) but since it is a very small airport, flight options are finite. The routes are mostly from within the state of Texas and a sprinkling of options via Phoenix and Las Vegas as well. The car rental agencies here are located within the airport terminal and are on the first level across from baggage claim. Since this is a smaller airport, only Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz and National are serving here.
There are, as expected, a few other alternative options on getting to little Marfa as well:
If you’re traveling in a group you can charter a shuttle or book a car service. Midland Shuttle Services operates from Midland-Odessa, Chauffeur Service Limousines and City Lights Limousine Service both run from El Paso. Book on their website before starting your journey, they will be able to pick you up and drop you off at the airports.
If you’re after the Van Life and you decide to rent a RV and travel to Marfa, there are assigned glamorous dirt lots with good facilities for you all over. When booking, do note where you can park your rig. Some good options around Marfa include: El Cosmico, the hipster dream spot, also Tumble In RV park, and the Marfa Yacht Club. of course the official Marfa Ghost Lights area also allows overnight stays and a fun place to set up camp with your RV. The National Parks in the area also have various RV facilities but check their websites for more information. It all depends on the time of year, but still your best bet is to book a spot for your overnight stay in advance at most destinations. Cruise America (the biggest company in the country) has RVs available to rent from Austin, Dallas, San Antonio and Houston. They have an extensive website with all the necessary details on how to book, collect (you will need to take a local taxi or ride-share app from the various airports to their locations) and manage your RV.
Once you arrive
Marfa is only 1.6 sq mi/4.1 km2. And once you’re here you will love the walkability of the city. There are zero public transportation options, so note that before your trip. However there are many places that require a car (day trips, various activities and such) or would make things much easier (driving to see art installations in the desert, or even the Marfa ghost lights). There are the Uber and Lyft apps, but don’t depend on it as it’s not quite as reliable as it would be in a big city. There are only a handful of local drivers.
Parking your car
Parking your car around Marfa is generally free - if noted otherwise you will clearly see the signs. Most of the hotels will indicate exactly where you can park your car overnight and whether they charge for this service. With the influx of newcomers the city has started to enforce stricter parking rules - with fines and booting - as cars can no longer park anywhere they please. With all the seasonal events many areas are blocked off and prohibited, note the signs as they are often changing. Overnight parking is allowed in some areas, the signs will indicate.
Biking
A fun way to explore Marfa is also on bike. Bringing your own is naturally a possibility if you’re able with a sturdy bike rack on your car. If not, local rental is rather inexpensive and certainly easier. E Bike Marfa at 114 West San Antonio Street is a great place to pick one up. They have two types available - a go-anywhere fat tire ebike that is perfect if you plan to take it out into the desert, or their more compact scooter style ebike that is great if you’re just cruising around town. They also offer tours and kid friendly bikes (with child seats or trailers). The bikes’ batteries allow for a range of 25-45 miles /40-70 km, so you can really get around.
Walking
Now to get to all this lovely dust bowl walking. It is by far the easiest way to cruise around town and also a handy way to meet other wanderers. The streets are laid out simply and even without a map you can navigate most of the city. The evenings can get cold and also windy, so dress accordingly, but it is very safe to saunter around town at night. The town embraces its walking culture, so joining in just makes the most sense. It’s all part of what locally they call, Marfa time.
- Tip: Evenings are often cold, so if you’re walking around be sure to dress in layers.
“Marfa is hard to explain. It is also hard to get to. But once you have arrived, you will fully understand the magic”
Where to stay
Marfa is out of the ordinary to say the least. And so naturally the places to rest your head fit the bill perfectly - from chic outposts, to quiet inns, out of town ranches and noteworthy historic lodgings.
If you’re following the stylish social crowd
El Cosmico
This is not just a lodge. It is a community gathering spot for Marfa citizens, travelers from all over the world, kids, doggies (with just a small fee), plus just about anyone and everyone else. And it is the hippie cowboy dream that Marfa is all about. What started as a 21-acre pasture on the outskirts of town in 2005, has expanded into what they call a “bohemian nomadic hotel” where you can glamp, set up camp or nestle in more lux-comfort. The different options include self camping areas and also stays in renovated vintage trailers, their cosmic kasita (think desert cabin), safari tents, Sioux-style teepees, and Mongolian yurts. You can easily book these various alternatives and each comes with a set of special treats. The communal spaces across the land include a lazy hammock grove, a community lounge and mercantile (more about that later), and an amphitheater with outdoor stage also where there is always something magical happening. They also have an outdoor kitchen (with fridge and sink) and dining area if you’d like to prepare some of your own meals. Or if you just want to meet fellow wanders. The bath houses feature showers, tubs, electrical outlets, plus all the other ablution needs. Book in advance if you would like to star gaze from their wood-fired Dutch-style hot tubs (which comes at an additional charge). The main grounds (and shelter) is very close to the prime intersection of town, and their Brite Building apartment (which they rent out as more of a self catering situation) is right in the heart of downtown. The store, El Cosmico Provisions Co., is a curated selection of desert gear, goodies and gifts for intrepid wanderers everywhere. Although there is no restaurant on site (town is easily reached on foot within 10 minutes, as it’s half a mile/less than a km), the store has wine for sale that you can take back to your resting place. Note that WIFI is spotty, but the lobby has a strong signal for your needs. Their latest iteration launching in the near future - in collaboration with Starcitect Bjarke Ingels - will double its capacity and add 3D-printed structures. 802 S Highland Avenue https://elcosmico.com/
If you’re after casual, but with touches of elegance
Hotel Saint George
A newer addition to town, the minimalist aesthetic hotel is on the site of the original Saint George Hotel built in 1886. With 55 rooms this is the largest hotel in Marfa and a good option all year round. The hotel prides itself on the spacious rooms and suites. They offer King bed rooms and Queen bed rooms and a handful of suites. Plus Aesop bath products, those fluffy thick towels everyone loves, local art (photography, sculpture and paintings all worth perusing) and panoramic views are included in all of these. Some of the suites comprehend working spaces, dining areas, giant bathtubs, and a wet bar. In terms of facilities, this is the hotel that caters to all those needs. For wining and dining, it is home to the southwest influenced dining hot spot LaVenture (and yes, they can send food upstairs if you’d like) as well as the Saint George Bar where locals watch Marfa shorthorn football or a chat to the cocktail maestros. You can also hang out in the sun at The Pool, and they have a pool side bar and grill right across the street from the hotel. Access is complimentary for hotel guests and you can pay a little extra to bring your friends who aren’t staying here. A special part of the hotel is in the lobby where the Marfa Book Store has set up camp, with books specializing in all things Marfa plus work from artists in residency at the Chinati Foundation in town. 105 South Highland Avenue https://www.marfasaintgeorge.com/
If you’re looking for a low key hideout downtown
Thunderbird Hotel
Did someone call for a midcentury roadside boutique hotel? Well Thunderbird - in that perfect retro 1950s horseshoe shape - will fulfill all your western dreams. Find it down a stone strewn road under a glossy neon sign, right in the middle of Marfa downtown. The pale blue aesthetic pays homage to all things minimal and the walls are a rotation of artists in residence at the Chinati Foundation and up-and-coming newcomers. With just 24 rooms, this is a good place to escape the desert sun and the dust. The hotel is dog friendly and also a great place to bring friends to hang out at the fire pits or out in the cacti laden yard - speak to reception if you want to have a small catered party with music here as they charge a fee for a few hours of pleasure. They do also have a gorgeous pool and you can rent cruiser bikes, typewriters and record players from reception. Little touches of delight include cozy Peruvian blankets on the beds, the Big Bend Coffee available, and Los Poblanos organic toiletries. 601 West San Antonio Street www.thunderbirdmarfa.com
If you’re a history buff
Hotel Paisano
One of the few places in town on the National Register of Historic Places the hotel is all about its southwest charm. Known as the most elegant hotel between El Paso and San Antonio, this gem has been here for eons. The first iteration opened in 1930 as a spot for cattle ranchers to come do business or travelers seeing that healthy dry desert air. In 1955 it became the hottest spot in all of town as the Hollywood stars arrived - including Dennis Hopper, James Dean, Rock Hudson and Elizabeth Taylor - to film Giant. The latest renovation - still celebrating the original Spanish revival style - offers 42 rooms plus suites, a heated kidney shaped swimming pool, an enormous ballroom, plus Jett’s Grill (with that jalapeno fried sirloin). They have also added amenities appropriate for business travelers like a conference space and offices. They are also pet friendly for a fee, and recommend the Oak Street, Marfa public dog park two blocks away. If you need a gym whilst staying, you’re in luck as they have a new fitness center. If you’re wanting to do some retail therapy with a local slant, try their gift shop and Greasewood Gallery where local artisans and artists offer fare. If you want to stay in James Dean’s room, ask for 233 or Dame Liz Taylor’s was 212. Rumor in town is that the hotel is haunted, so make sure to look out for paranormal activities as you sit at their fantastic bar - perhaps one of the Giant stars returned for ghostly entertainment’s sake. 207 North Highland Avenue https://hotelpaisano.com/
If you want to be little out of town
Riata Inn - Marfa
Although it's just under a mile outside of Marfa, it is a great place if you want to have some quiet time during your desert escape. The Riata Inn is small, but ever-so friendly. And the glorious views of the mountains in the deep distance will be soothing if you decide to stay here. They have decorated this motor-lodge ranch style inn with a nod to the classic western design motif, and that will give you just the right spirit for your trip. Also, if you’re after an extended stay, a cyclist or traveling in a group, they have special rates for exactly that. The rooms here are larger than anywhere else in town, and are very comfortable without being fussy. You have a simple choice of Queen, or King (with sleeper sofa) room. They do have ADA accessible rooms available also. The amenities here include a microwave, coffee pot and refrigerator if those are important to you, and they also have a pool that isn’t heated. The Inn is moreover dog friendly and your furry friend’s stay comes with zero charge. Ask for a room on the eastern side of the building as it is fantastic to see the Texas sunrise from this perspective. Note that reception is not 24 hours a day. They are soon to open their new addition which will be cargo/container style stand alone rooms complete with 360 degree viewing terraces on their roofs. The inn dog, Honey, is around in case you need a furry friend during your stay. 1500 East Highway US 90 https://www.riatainnmarfa.com/
If you like to stay out on a quiet ranch
Cibolo Creek Ranch
About 30 miles / 48 km south of Marfa, right at the foothills of the Chinati Mountains, is where this 30,000 acre luxury ranch property is stationed. With historical art and antiques sprinkled about, this is one of the oldest ranches in Texas - but with updated modern amenities for the present-day traveler. Created as a rustic homestead, they now have various options for a very-private stay: including pool, courtyard-garden and also lakeside rooms (all with wood fireplaces), a few suites (with saunas) and then their extra special historical three fort options. The fort is aimed at groups or private parties (up to 25 guests) with various configurations and is situated inside a caldera (ancient volcanic crater from 32 million years ago). All the accommodations are decorated with fascinating antiques and authentic Saltillo floor tiles, plus are pet-friendly. The landscape here is lush and the natural springs and creeks add to that quiet atmosphere. The ranch has on-site and off-site activities (some free, others at cost) like: star gazing, trail running, hiking, fishing, shooting, hunting, horseback riding, ATV tours, open air humvee tours, outings to Native American rock art and birding excursions. As it is a traditional working cow-calf ranch, run by cowboys, you will also be able to see Brangus and black Angus bulls grazing about. Speaking of animals, the ranch is named after the roaming buffalo that once roamed the area. Today on property you will also enjoy spotting Roosevelt elk, American bison, Gemsbok, javelinas and mountain lions. In terms of wellness, they have on property yoga and meditations classes plus massage therapy services. They offer on-property dining on their enclosed veranda with authentic southwestern menus - and on special occasions dining is in the great hall of their 1857 Adobe Cibolo Fort. 97139 US Highway 67 (south of Marfa) cibolocreekranch.com
TIP: If you’re biking around. Even though it’s a small town, with not a lot of people. It is recommended that you lock up your bike overnight at your accommodation.
“Keep in mind that this is lonely far west desert country - so things take longer than expected”
Day Trips
Clear skies, dry desert air and these views that are forever. There is no better way to explore the Far West than to cruise around on the open road.
For day trips you will need a car. The distances are big and cannot be done by bike. A good rule of thumb is to ensure that you have a full tank of gas, or that your electric vehicle is fully charged before heading out onto these long, dusty roads in western Texas. Water is a must, so stock up just in case. Cell service can be spotty at times and there are not very many facilities available in the small towns you will be driving by. Be aware of animals on the roads as they seemingly come out of nowhere, especially roadrunners and antelope. It’s rather remote, so being prepared goes a long way here in the desert. If you’re planning to visit a few Texas State Parks consider purchasing a Texas State Park annual pass which gives you and your unlimited guests free entry plus various other discounts. https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/park-information/passes/sppass-faq
Way out of town
If you have enough time to explore the area - or want to hike or bike - these are the longer excursions that require some extra planning and preparations.
Big Bend National Park
A worth-it 90 minute (just less than 100m/160 km) drive south from Marfa along the Mexican border, is where this dark-sky park is located. The remote and least visited National Park in the U.S. is over 800,000 acres of river canyons, sightly mountains and endless desert scape that come alive with glorious fauna and flora. Archeological sites date back to 10,000 years and more recent developments in the area include miners, pioneers and ranchers, of course. You can do self driving scenic routes throughout the park (pick up a map at the ranger’s station at the entrances), stay in the campgrounds at Chisos Basin, enjoy the hot springs, and do day hikes all over (with kids and your dogs). If you’re not just day tripping but wanting to stay longer, and are more hotel inclined try Chisos Mountain Lodge or Ten Bits Ranch. Some of the highlight trails include the Lost Mine Trail which is a 4.8 m/7.8 km round trip with 1,100 ft/ 336 m elevation gain hike with beautiful views, or the Window Trail which is 5.6 m / 9 km round trip with a 1000 ft/ 305 m elevation gain hike. And for a much longer hike, the Emory Peak Trail will take you to the highest point in the Park - it’s a 10.5 m / 17 km round trip. They do all have rest stops en route. It is one of the most biologically diverse arid regions on the planet. Thus look out for a variety of wildlife: from bears, to sneaky coyotes all the way to its 450 species of birds and thousands of insect species. If you’re in need of a sit-down dinner meal the old mining town of Terlingua isn’t far and Starlight Theatre has toothsome fare. Some things to note is that GPS is not reliable in this area, the two ways to access the park are either from Persimmon Gap on the north side, via the U.S. Highway 385 from Marathon or Maverick Junction on the west, via Texas State Highway 118 through Study Butte. https://www.nps.gov/bibe/index.htm
Terlingua Ghost Town
This abandoned quicksilver (mercury) mining town is about 110 miles / 177 km south of Marfa. Right between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park and nestled near the Mexican border. This town dates back to the 1800s when miners came looking for fortune and opportunity. The production was at its height during World War I and soon after World War II the Chisos Mining Company filed for bankruptcy and the miners fled town. Today this is where the ruins of this mining company remain - plus a cemetery worth seeing - with just a few residents still living here (including off-the-grid eco warrior types) and operating various small businesses. Later years in the 1960s people returned and had the world’s first Chili Cook-Off - this famed event today attracts visitors from all over the country. It’s a great place to start journeys like rafting on the Rio Grande (ask about it at the former cantina), or to go biking, hiking and motorcycling. The former company store is now an artsy gift shop, and there is a dinner theater absolutely worth going to in the former movie house attracting characters from all walks of life. This Starlight Theatre is where all the action in town takes place. They have a renowned porch where, as they say: People come. They don't do much. Sit. Talk. Sip a beer. Maybe sing. Watch the sunset. There is casual-enough dining every night - think simple burgers, giant salads and joyous endings to the day in the form of a classic Pecan Pie. Don’t miss their live music that runs Monday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings until 1:00. Or just park yourself at the mesquite wood bar with cow skulls dangling from the roof. You will happily be entertained. Admission to this town is gratis, and there are no walls or fences, so you’re free to roam and explore. Off Highway 170 (West of the Highway 118 junction) http://ghosttowntexas.com/
Much Closer
If you don’t have that much time but want to explore a little more outside of Marfa, here are some options that will give you a taster of what’s beyond the city’s bounds. These range from under an hour to just a few hours in driving time.
McDonald Observatory
This is where to come see the stars. And it’s just 38 m / 60 km north of Marfa. The McDonald astronomical observatory is part of the University of Texas at Austin as an organized research unit of the College of Natural Sciences. The daily visits consist of live solar viewings and tours of the largest telescopes whereas the evening star parties let visitors look through various sized telescopes in the Rebecca Gale Telescope Park. If you’re an astro-enthusiast this will be just for you. The observatory is equipped with a wide range of instrumentation and operates the first lunar laser ranging station. The high and dry peaks of the Davis Mountains are ideal for anything sky and space related - with some of the clearest, darkest night skies in the area. Before your trip here you can tune into their daily syndicated self-produced radio program called StarDate where they have short segments related to astronomy. And when you get there be sure to inquire about the Hobby-Eberly Telescope Dark Energy Experiment. Note: it’s advised to purchase tickets in advance online as they sell out. Check their calendar of events for special programming and note that they are closed Sundays and Mondays, the rest of the week they are open day time plus Tuesday, Friday and Saturday evenings. Evenings in the desert are cold, especially during the winter months so dress appropriately. Frank N. Bash Visitors Center, 3640 Dark Sky Drive https://mcdonaldobservatory.org/
Big Bend Ranch State Park
They do say things are bigger and better in Texas. And this is the Lone State’s most sizable State Park. In fact, it is so remote, and so rugged that it’s been called The Uninhabited - El Despoblado by locals. The landscape is stark in places with a melange of river lowlands and deep canyons, all leading to high plateaus and steep mountain ranges. And the Oso Mountain peaks at 5,135 ft / 1565 m. All in all, it is a great place for wild outdoor adventures, with 238 miles of multi-use trails - think hiking, biking, 4x4 touring and horse riding. The Puerta Chilicote Trailhead is the best access point to a variety of different types of trails (easily reached by car). One such route is a 5 mile / 8 km out and back hike that accesses the western rim of Fresno Canyons with views of the Solitario flatirons. Another is the 3.2 m/5.1 km one way Cerro Chilicote Loop Trail. If you’re an experienced or adventure-hungry hiker there are a number of interconnected trails dropping into Fresno Canyon, lower Arroyo de los Mexicanos and Arroyo Primero. Always use maps, as trails are primitive with rock cairns and not many signs. You can pick up a map that details all of this at the ranger’s stations. In terms of what there is to see, the possibilities are endless. With prehistoric campsites and rock drawings on view, bighorn sheep, more than 300 bird species and agave lechuguilla (only found in the Chihuahuan Desert). Reservations for entry are recommended as they are often at peak capacity. The Park also recommends that you carry plenty of water, wear appropriate protective clothing and when biking wear a helmet and carry spare tubes. They do have camp sites and lodging available in the Park as well. The Park is also pet friendly. Sauceda Ranger Station (check in first at east or west entrance), 1900 Sauceda Ranch Road https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/big-bend-ranch
Scenic Loop Drive
This is an iconic local-recommended 100 mile / 160 km leisurely car traipse. And it is just the right amount of time and effort, to get some wind in your hair and just breathe in that dry hot desert air. Plus the views of the mountains and endless skies are spectacular. Start the wee journey by heading north to Fort Davis on U.S. Highway 17. If you need some libations and snacks Ford Davis’ Stone Village Market and the Fort Davis Drugstore are both brimming with all your desires. After Fort Davis take a left onto 118 Highway towards the McDonald Observatory and less than 10 m / 16 km later you will find the Madera Canyon Trail deep in the Davis Mountains Preserve. The McIvor Conservation Center (a nature conservancy cabin) is nearby and worth popping into. To complete the loop drive a little more north and turn off on the 166 which has two routes back to Marfa. Stay on 166 to see the Point of Rocks scenic spot (it will take you back to Highway 17) or take the 505 which will deliver you out on Highway 90 at Porvenir Monument, just north of Marfa.
Davis Mountains State Park
If you’re after outdoorsy activities with graceful views all nearby Marfa, this will accomplish that, and more. Just 24 miles north of Marfa, right outside the town of Fort Davis is where the Park headquarters are, plus it’s a good place to get your bearings.
They have hiking trails, bird watching at their bird blind, mountain biking, trails if you brought your own horse, stargazing, camping sites and geocaching (call it modern day scavenger hunting). This mile-high Park was formed by volcanoes 25-30 million years before and then became a sanctuary for Native Americans who lived in the area through the late 1800s. And today is home to conspicuous javelinas, mule deer, 260 species of birds plus black tailed rattlesnakes. Recently due to conservation efforts bears have been reintroduced to the area as well. During wet years wild flowers fill the park and the ever-there shrubs include aromatic sumac, and Apache plum. The known volcano eruptions resulted in Frazier Canyon, Sleeping Lion and Barrel Springs all formations you will be able to view in the park. The Davis Mountains has one of only three of Texas’ unique sky islands formed by a cooler, wetter landscape surrounded by arid lowland desert. Texas 118, Fort Davis https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/davis-mountains
Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute
This botanical garden, field station for biological research and non-profit organization is an easy 26 miles / 42 km north of Marfa. Located in the foothills of the Davis Mountains it has an elevation of 5100 ft/1556 m. The site itself is on 507 acres encompassing semi-desert grasslands and igneous rock outcrops. Their highlight geologic draws are the Modesta Canyon, with its year-round spring, and the dome at Clayton’s Overlook. You can spend multiple hours here exploring their hiking trails, bird blinds, mining exhibitions, or learning about geology and flora at the Desert Botanical Gardens. They also have a Pollinator Garden and Cactus Museum, great for kids to learn about hummingbirds, and butterflies. They often have special events - like moonlight hikes - so check their website for the latest. If you fall in love and want to get more involved they have various volunteer programs. Located off of Hwy 118, 4 miles SE of Fort Davis, 43869 St. Hwy. 118 http://www.cdri.org/
Balmorhea State Park
Texas is hot. And in the summer, it’s very hot here. And so cooling off might be just what you may need. And so the largest spring-fed swimming pool (with 15 million gallons of water gushing through daily) in the world will have to do. Here you can swim, skin dive, snorkeling or scuba dive in this historic park’s giant pool - and at 72-76 F/ 22-24 C year round it's just right. The Civilian Conservation Corps built this State Park in the 1930s with spring water that comes from a large aquifer system northwest of here, and today it is where local Marfa residents come to get cool. These historic springs were previously known as Mescalero Springs, as this is where the horses of the Mescalero Apache came to get their water from. They cap the amount of people that are allowed in per day, so it never gets too packed. It’s only a 54 mile / 87 km drive north from Marfa, and worth every second. Besides for the cool waters they also have bird watching, and hikes. The cienegas (wetlands) are home to many endangered fish and wildlife, so ensure you’re being mindful of their conservation. You can spend an entire day here as the park has bath houses, picnic sites, a playground and an outdoor sports area. And if you have too much fun and decide to stay overnight they offer campsites or a motel-style retro lodging called San Solomon Springs Courts. If you’re bringing the kids, ask at the headquarters about the Junior Ranger Explorer Pack. 9207 TX-17, Toyahvale https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/balmorhea
Calera Chapel
About 50 miles / 80 km north of Marfa, there used to be a town called Calera, and today all that is left is a small beautiful abode-style chapel called Mission Mary. This minimalist structure - in an off white - has become a symbol for the area and acts as a pilgrimage for many travelers. It appears to be a building done by none other than minimalist artist Donald Judd, but in fact it predates him to about 1902. Built from rock by the community for a Dutch priest, the chapel was in use until about 1940 when the congregation disbanded. In recent years the chapel has been lovingly restored by a non profit organization - and now it’s used for retreats, ceremonies and prayer. Calera Chapel tells the story of the area and how transient it was for centuries, people coming and going as they needed more resources in this harsh climate. Not easy to find, follow the Farm to Market Road (FM) 3078, Toyahvale http://www.caleratexas.org/
Museum of the Big Bend
This cultural and historical locale is found on the Sul Ross State University campus in nearby town, Alpine, Texas. And this is a quick 27 mile / 45 km drive east of Marfa. This is a good place to spend some time to understand the history of the region - starting with the Native Americans that inhabited here for thousands of years before the arrival of the Spanish. The Spanish - with missions and presidios - had a lasting effect on the area only to be replaced by Mexico in later years. Of course, the U.S. then expanded westward and brought their culture here too. Besides for their permanent collections various exhibitions are constantly coming through the museum, so it’s worth checking their website for the most current. One of the collections worth seeing at the museum is the Yana and Marty Davis map anthology. This is one of the largest and most diversified selections of maps in the state of Texas and is housed in a special map room. If you’re a map fanatic, you can pre book a special appointment. Another is the Retablos compendium. There are small, personal devotional paintings on tin, produced during the 1800s through the early 1900s in Mexico. Some of the interesting samples are The Holy Family, The Trinity and various saints that are all represented here. There is also an arrow head treasury here, the Livermore Cache. Collected in the Davis Mountains, by Susan Janes, these arrowheads are an archaeological marvel. Private tours are available and kids under 12 enter the museum for free. Northeast corner of the Sul Ross State University campus (use entrance four from Harrison Street) https://www.museumofthebigbend.com/
Fort Davis National Historic Site
If you want to get some version of the local history of the region this Frontier Post is a good brief stop. Fort Davis is what they call one of the best surviving examples of an Indian Wars’ frontier military post in the southwest. And in the 19th century this area was a strategic locale for protecting mail coaches and freight wagons on the Trans-Pecos portion of the San Antonio-El Paso road and on the Chihuahua Trail. The fort is on the site of an earlier Indian village, which earlier Anglo-American explorers called Painted Comanche Camp. At the site they have various trails at the site including the short Cemetery and Historic Pump House Trail or the longer Photographers Trail promising gorgeous vistas. There are also 24 historic buildings and over a 100 ruins and foundations that you can self tour. 1504 State St, Fort Davis https://www.nps.gov/foda/index.htm
Out of the country
Boquillas
If you have your passport and you’re interested to experience something different to western Texas, cross into Mexico to the tiny border town of Boquillas. You can do this from Big Bend National Park where rangers can assist with any queries. Here you will be able to feast on tacos, grab some ice cold beers and also explore the sand dunes. It is a slightly more involved itinerary but certainly worth the effort. Park at the Boquillas Crossing parking lot near Boquillas Canyon. After you pass through the port of entry, a small rowboat ferry will escort you across the Rio Grande for a small fee. You can then ride to town on a burro, or a horse for an additional fee or walk the 15 minutes. You then check in with Mexican immigration officials in town, pay a very tiny fee to the Mexican Protected Area fund and you will receive a wristband. Once you’re in town it's easy to explore on foot, local families sell wares made from copper and beads, embroidered handicrafts. And best of all there are just two restaurants in town and both serve authentic cuisine inspired by the desert - carne asada (marinated steak), artisanal cheeses plus everything is served with flour tortillas. Boquillas is surrounded by a 520,000 acre biosphere preserve and this critical wildlife habitat (with hundreds of bird species and mammals) is what is so protected here. It’s a perfect respite and will satisfy foodies and others alike. Of course, you do need passports for this adventure. http://boquillas.org/expect/
TIP: Always pack water. Plus remember that cell service is also spotty at times and there are not many available facilities in the small towns you will be driving by.
“Driving slow and embracing that Far West nowhere energy is part of the magic of the region”
Local Goods
Shopping in Marfa is an excursion in its own right. It’s mostly locally made and all of it is artisanal. And that handcrafted purity is what the city is all about.
You can reach all these local goods places on foot as they are located conveniently downtown. It is also good to know that most of Marfa’s shops (and in fact galleries and some food spots) are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. So therefore that is a good day to plan out-of-town excursions, or just for lounging about at the accommodation’s pools. The city is rather small and only has three ATMs (not from the big national banks) so bringing cash from out of town, plus credit cards are highly advisable. As it is a small town with not a lot available, be mindful that things can easily go out of stock.
Apparel
Cobra Rock Boot Company
Established in 2011 by Logan Caldbeck and Colt Miller, this is a small leather boutique downtown Marfa. They specialize in minimalist handmade boots, plus small leather goods and other accessories. If you want a keepsake from a Marfa trip that will last a lifetime, beautiful leather boots are the ultimate. And their most classic - for all-of-time chicness - is a unisex Pronghorn boot in coffee leather. It is a Chelsea boot done in clean and neat western style, all shaped from one piece of American leather without any side-seams. It is hand welted and made with leather soles and heels (1.75 inch/ 4cm). They craft these boots lovingly right in store with vintage machines and tools - and it's a marvelous treat to watch the cobblers at work. They also sell their leather bags and wallets plus a recent addition of unique Ginew work jackets (a Portland based Native American owned denim brand - ginewusa.com). Their opening times are Wednesday through Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:00, and on Sunday from 10:00 to 13:00. But making an appointment - or doing a pre-order - is also possible via email. 211 South Dean Street www.cobrarock.com
Arts, Crafts and Artifacts
The Marfa Store
Half store, half gallery. And as they say here it’s Maar FUH. This is a fun very local store that celebrates the quirk of the city and really leans into all its local peculiarity. It is ideal if you would like to stock up on all things Marfa - meaning things that say Marfa, things that have the word Marfa proudly on it. The store has a little bit of everything for pretty much everyone. For instance they have a selection of minimal (which seems appropriate) hats, beanies, warm sweaters and t-shirts. The Meet Me in Marfa t-shirt with blue text on white, is the classic purchase here. They also sell gorgeous keepsake knick knacks for your home - like crystal bowls, hand made concrete incense holders. Some of the other favorites they always have in stock are crayons shaped as rocks, hand embossed letterpress postcard packs, and prickly pear cactus jelly candies in a retro box. There are also Marfa related books and coffee table books, art prints with Marfa motifs and silver jewelry made by local designers. They are closed on Tuesdays but open 10:00 to 17:00 on all other days. 208 East San Antonio (at Inde/Jacobs Gallery) https://themarfastore.com/
Freda
A small shop under a big sky as they say. This is where to pick up keepsakes ranging from scented oils, to locally forged jewelry, vintage clothes, all the way to odd found objects. And their namesake, Grandma Freda will surely approve. Things like their hand-sewn eye sleep masks from Maria Sandhammer, bouquets of copal incense, colorful illustrated custom tote bags from Rotter and Friends, and cowboy hats just feel so apropos here in the Far West Texas high desert. Although this little quirky - close-knit - shop is only 180 square feet they often have creative shows, parties and events here attracting town-folk. Pop in and chat to whomever is in on that day to find out more about comings and goings. It is also a place where you can share your dreams, and someone there may just be able to interpret them for you. 207 South Highland Avenue www.shop-freda.com
Veldt Marfa
For simple minimal jewelry made right here in Marfa, Veldt has a great mix. They started this jewelry store and gallery as a collaboration of skills - LeAna, an artist and Glen, an industrial designer. Both with the love for objet d’art - art objects that can be worn on the body. Veldt is an African word meaning high-desert grassland - and the Marfa plateau reminded the duo of their high-veldt birthplace in South Africa. They mostly use hand-formed porcelain that is kiln fired, and also super light and indestructible titanium in their designs. Their latest collection includes jewelry for men (with different titanium modernist designs all hand polished with gorgeous brushed surfaces) and a desert wafer necklace with different disks done in porcelain and titanium clinking together. Everything is made by hand and totally unique as no object is the same as another. Pop in at their gallery for various events as they are always having a party for Marfa residents. 119 Highland Street https://veldtmarfa.com/
Marfa Brands
They started out as a handmade soap store but have luckily expanded to include other handmade goods produced right here in Marfa. A good gift for a friend is their locally inspired and made care package available in various color schemes - a white tea soap bar, a Texas cedarwood and lavender soap all on an enamel soap dish, with an agave fiber washcloth and most importantly a Lucky Pony shoe. They also sell Turkish towels, pumice stones and more. The soap making factory is in the lumberyard right behind the store, and they often host workshops and events there. Their social media is a good place to keep track of all that. They are open on Fridays and Saturdays from 10:00 to 17:00 and on Sundays from 10:00 to 13:00. If they are closed and you are in need of soap, they also retail at El Cosmico’s Provisions. 107-177 South Dean Street
Far West Collective (previously El Cosmico Provisions)
As El Cosmico owner, Liz Lambert, says Marfa has a magical quality of light, a slower pace of life and that is what they wanted to celebrate in their retail realm. And this highly curated selection of desert gear, goodies and gifts for intrepid wanderers everywhere is at the El Cosmico Hotel. And recently they have opted for using the name Far West Collective as they expanded their design studio and ventured deeper into the e-commerce universe. But it remains the high desert paradise it always has been. They collaborate with Filth Mart on their tees with their most famous one having, mañana emblazoned on the front. This Marfa cri de coeur tee is reportedly seen on the streets of Tokyo and Los Angeles. They also have hand-made colorful Batik robes, high-end organic face serums for dry desert weather, mementos and hip camping gear on sale. It’s the full on high desert lifestyle available for your shopping pleasure. 802 South Highland Avenue (El Cosmico) https://farwestcollective.com/
Garza Marfa
This furniture, textile and design store is the love child of husband and wife duo, Jamey and Constance . After moving from the west coast to the high plains desert, they decided to take their skills and open a shop and production space. Jamey’s background in welding, and Constance’s experience in textiles was the perfect deftness for this undertaking. And the result is a highly curated mix of rustic goods but are still beyond chic. A notable favorite here is their elevated series of vegetable saddle grade American leather and iron chairs. They also have ceramics from other texas-based artisans, indigo dyed Kalamkari textiles and other decorative arts. They can easily ship the larger furniture pieces and a repertoire for custom orders also , just inquire whilst shopping.
124 Highland Street www.garzamarfa.com
Marfa Book Company
This is where to buy zany books related to Marfa and the Far West. Not only has it been an independent bookstore and project space, it has also been a publisher of big sized beautiful art books. But it is really much more than that here in Marfa, as a place to gather the local creatives and visitors from out of town. Over the years they have organized various concerts, poetry gatherings, exhibitions and they also currently play host to the Agave Festival. Furthermore, they are members of the In Front of Us film series committee - that hosts a year-round film program featuring films made by women. You can also browse their collection of rare art, photography and design books and their own published books, Al río / To the River, a collaboration between Marfa Book Co. owner Tim Johnson and the artist Zoe Leonard. If Johnson happens to be in store, be sure to ask him about the West Texas Cloud Appreciation Society. Open Fridays and Saturdays from 11:00 to 17:00 and Sundays from 9:00 to 12:00. 300 South Kelly Street http://www.marfabookco.com/
Wrong Store Marfa
A small and unique store meets an idiosyncratic gallery. Co-founded by artist Camp Bosworth and Buck Johnston, this tasteful independent space is a pure Marfa haven. It runs the gamut here, as they do a solid choice in offbeat ceramics, artsy books, handmade jewelry and very unique art. Some real standouts are: the ironic Marfa Subway Map print by Jack Murphy (limited edition of 25), Michael W. Hall’s colorful shrines (done in acrylic) and also honest hand carved pine wooden hearts made by Camp Bosworth themselves. A recent exhibition was Let me hear your body talk by the artists, Joey Fauerso and Gyan Shrosbree. Stay tuned on Wrong Marfa’s social media or their website, as these shows are always evolving. And as they say they are open every day unless we aren’t. 110 Highland Avenue https://wrongmarfa.com/contact-us/
Local produce
Groceries available all year
The Get Go
If you’re after gourmet deliciousness, this is your first stop. Chef owned this independent grocery store opened in 2007 and has grown to be the favorite in town. They offer organic, local ingredients of the finest quality in everything they do - and cater to the home chef wanting top of the line everything plus visitors filling up tote bags of locally made treats. If your accommodation includes a kitchen, here you will satisfy all your desires: from fresh produce, to sustainably sourced meats and a well stocked bulk section. They also specialize in a curated repertoire of wines and beers (don’t miss their zero proof and gluten free picks), and things for a sweet tooth, like organic ice cream and chocolates. Their expansive hours are Monday to Saturday from 10:00 to 19:00 and Sundays from 12:00 to 18:00. 208 South Dean Street https://getgomarfa.com/
Porter’s Since 1945
This Texas based independently owned grocery chain, is where you can get stocked up on all things possible. Starting with fruit, vegetables, proteins, and every snack imaginable. They also offer beverages and pre-made food options plus a large deli and frozen goods section. If you need items like cleaning supplies, or toiletries this is also your stop. Before road trips this is where to stock up on bulk water and even medical supplies. 717 West San Antonio Street https://www.myporters.net/marfa
Seasonal only
Marfa Saturday Market
The guidelines for selling goods here are simple: made, harvested, produced or grown in the area. And so local farmers, bakers, cooks, artists and artisans bring their collections every Saturday. It is an outdoor, seasonal market with a real focus on the local community - and you can indulge in all things including perfect sourdough bread, pasture-raised eggs, flaky pear tarts, spicy asado burritos, fresh tamales (vegetarian and chicken), canned pickles, an array of newly harvested vegetables, and also surprising arts and crafts wares. The market opens at 9:30 and runs until 11:00 from Spring to the last weekend in November. Ask your accommodation or the local grocery stores for more information as they have all the latest vendor information. 302 South Highland Street (at the USO Pavilion behind the Visitors Center on South Highland and Dallas Streets)
Cactus Liquors
Owned by agave enthusiasts Faith Gay and Joey Benton, this is a bottle store meets succulent sanctum. And as they say about their desert booze selection - it's a little bit of mainstream, and a lot of stuff that’s a bit farther out. And this sentiment covers their smoky mescal and fragrant sotol (agave spirit) selections, to their beers, small batch bourbons, magic elixirs and more. There is also a Marfa Meats vending machine that is plonked outside and is definitely worth checking out. They do cater to the small town’s boozy needs - by celebrating the fine art of imbibing - but with an international twist in their curation of items. They are open Monday through Saturday from 11:00 to 21:00. 405 South Highland Avenue https://www.cactusliquorsmarfa.com/
TIP:
To guarantee you are stocked up on drinks, beans from Big Bend Coffee Roasters and snacks when you arrive into town, do a pre-order from the gourmet grocery store, The Get Go (via their website). You can pick it up as you swing into town.
“Marfa loves to support all things local and magnificent - everyone here brings their touches of eccentric creativity.”
Outdoor Activities
Exploring this unique corner of the American west is best done outside.
Because of the near perfect weather all year, Marfa and surrounds have a great outdoor scene. In fact let your imagination run wild with all the possibilities of sights here. From endless vistas, rugged high desert mountains, deep river beds of the Rio Grande, and untouched beauty, all around. It is not densely populated and so the evening skies are clear making for prime stargazing. There are many planned and pre-booked activities all over the Far West, but even dining and lounging is often outside to appreciate this weather. A little travel note to keep in mind as you drive around the western part of Texas. It is likely you will drive through a Border Patrol checkpoint at some point with Agents and Canines. Make sure you have proper documentation with you. And again, it’s dry and warm, so make sure that you have extra water with you at all times.
If you’re feeling very active
River trips
Even though the desert can be very dry, this part of the Far West has the fertile Rio Grande. A perfect river for guided trips out in nature. The Rio Grande River starts in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado, then flows through New Mexico and along the Texas/Mexico Border to the Gulf of Mexico - and it’s on this very border where you can catch it. The water levels are not constant all year, with summer and fall being the best times for adventure. Your adventure won’t work with some low currents or warp speed class 4 rapids making it impossible to go out. The Rio Grande has so many routes - but the basics are trips that are either overnight and thus multiple days (Santa Elena, Mariscal or Boquillas Canyons) or just simple day trips (Colorado Canyon or Hot Springs). The best way to see the wonders of Big Bend is by floating - and Angell Expeditions has inflatable rafts, canoes and inflatable kayaks (up to groups of 25). They recommend you pack sunscreen, hats and towels (dry bags available).
https://angellexpeditions.com/river-trips/
For the ornithologists
Birding Tours
The Big Bend area in Texas has over 500 recorded bird species that either pass through the area or inhabit it. With the wooden sanctuaries, sky island mountain ranges, deep high desert and Rio Grande river, bird watching here is a year round delight - with prime viewing in the spring and fall. In this Far West Texas region, there is a vast area of grasslands despite the fact that the area is part of the Chihuahuan Desert - and with that comes a plethora of bird watching opportunities. Angell Expeditions runs birding tours in the Big Bend region for beginners and the most devoted bird lovers - and they know all the hidden bird oases in the region. In fact, they do volunteer work on two bird blinds in the Big Bend Ranch State Park, plus they have a birdwatching deck on the banks of the Rio Grande at their headquarters in Redford, Texas. Birds often seen with these tours include Black-Throated Grey Warbler, a Townsend’s Warbler, and a beautiful Varied Bunting. One of the highlights in the Big Bend region - for avid bird watchers - is the rare Colima Warbler, as this is the bird’s only U.S. breeding territory.
https://angellexpeditions.com/big-bend-birding-tours/
Need a lot of fresh dry desert air?
Hiking Tours
There are many self hiking opportunities all over the Far West. Tours are some of the ways to get some context for the giant area, some very interesting history, and to find all the unexplored beauty. Desert Sports run a number of very unique hiking tours and keep them small with just a few people per trip. These tours are mostly inside Bend Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park. All guided tours also include highly experienced guides and food and drink options (customizable menus available). Within Big Bend Ranch State Park there is the classic Lower Shut-Up Hike (from Lajitas mining district, along the Camino del Rio and into the Park) for intermediate hikers. In the Big Bend National Park the Mesa de Anguila is a full day of hiking from the Lajitas Resort, up saddle and onto the top of the mesa inside the Park. Shorter hikes (few hours only) are River Road (In Big Bend Ranch State Park) that runs between Lajitas and Presidio. Desert Sports also offer custom itineraries for backcountry hiking and vehicle supported hiking with camping. October through April is the recommended season for guided hiking tours for the more mild weather.
If you want to get off road
Mountain Biking Tours
The terrain and the weather are perfect for life on a bike. Adventures encompass the dirt roads of Big Bend National Park, the singletrack of the Lajitas plus the Contrabando trail systems. If truth be told, the Big Bend region has some seriously challenging terrain for passionate mountain bikers - deep into the mountains and across the desert. But there are also various easier options for the less skilled. Desert Sports Texas offers multi-day guided trips - which includes food and all other requirements - as well as simple day trips (opt for a 2-4 hour short ride, or 3-6 hour longer ride) with highly experienced guides. One of their special trips is a four day guided ride to the middle of nowhere - including the IMBA Epic Loop, and the geologic wonder of the Solitario (an ancient volcanic caldera). There are options for day rides throughout the year, and the recommended season for multi-day/overnight trips are October through April. Bring your own bike or rent one of their front-suspension mountain bikes. https://www.desertsportstx.com/guided-trips/mountain-bike-tours/
ATV and Jeep excursions
Big Bend has some of the roughest remote terrain in the country, and thus one of the best ways to see it all is by ATV or Jeep. Angell Excursions offer both. The customizable tours are in Big Bend National Park, Big Bend Ranch State Park as well as within exclusive private ranches. Some of the more popular routes are the Guale overlook (a mini Grand Canyon) or to Chorro Vista near the oases of Madrid and Mexicano Falls. All of these various rides are bumpy, adventurous, but extra fun. You can also opt for rides that take you to rock formations, deep pools of water and Native American pictographs. Some of these drives also require hiking. This is best done tailor made to ensure all your off-roading and hiking abilities are considered. It is recommended to pack swimsuits as desert springs along the way offer a perfect cooling off moment in the heat. https://angellexpeditions.com/offroad-tours/
For the seekers of silence
Gliding and Soaring
One of the most intoxicating ways to see Western Texas and its extra rugged terrain is to opt for a bird’s eye view. And the front seat of a two-seat sailplane does the trick. From roughly 2000 ft / 610 m up in the air the geological formations and desert landscape offer up extra magic. Soaring is in truth part of Marfa’s culture going back decades because of the regional winds, dry air and thermal updrafts - they even host championships here. Marfa Gliders, run by owner and pilot Burt Compton, runs this outfit from the Marfa Airport right outside of town (4.3 miles / 7km from downtown). He is a certified Federal Aviation Administration glider pilot instructor and also gives rides to visitors. As it is a soar-slash-glide plane riding updrafts, there is no engine, and thus no noise. There are also no stunts or flips, just gliding. See this experience as a meditation of sorts - up above in the skies with nothing but the sound of wind.The average flight is roughly 15-20 minutes and afternoons are the best time to fly as weather can lead to delays or cancellations. www.flygliders.com
Big Sky Yoga
As life speeds up, and becomes busier, one of the ways to find mindfulness and to slow it down a little bit is a good yoga class. And here at Big Sky Yoga, all classes at their downtown Marfa studio are conducted outside. They offer a varied selection of types of classes including a flow style vinyasa, a more focused on alignment style hatha class, a Yin class that’s breath attentive or their Rocket Ship to Samadhi class (combination of stretching, strenuous breathing and also meditation). Their schedule is available online where you can also book a spot in class. They also have step aerobics here and very often have retreats and special events worth attending during your time in town. Set an intention and come try a class under the big Texas skies. 105 East Oak Street (in the alley behind the Wrong Store) www.marfayogastudio.com/
If you want to work with your hands
Goat Farm Visit
Spent much time with goats? After this outdoorsy experience you will have a new appreciation for them and their bounty. At Marfa Maid Goat Farm they have a herd of primarily Nubian and Alpine dairy goats - all named after family members and friends. During the milking season these ladies are milked twice a day for their sweet fine milk and Marfa Maid turns this into their incredible cheeses. The tours they offer here are roughly an hour and give you a good overview of the milking process, a chance to pet the goats and naturally eat a selection of the cheeses. They are a very small producer of a line of soft chevre cheeses, aged cheese that are mold-ripened and rind washed plus they have a feta that is lightly brined. And you will be able to see these at most of the local restaurants, grocery stores and farmers markets. They do offer very exclusive small workshops where you will learn about owning and caring for dairy goats, the different milking techniques, and be sent home with various recipes to make your own cheese. They are not open to the public every day, book in advance if you’d like to do the tour and special workshops available through the year.
If you love golf
Lajitas Golf Resort
If you love the sport, you will love this one-of-a-kind 18 hole golf course. Far west near the border town of Lajitas and Big Bend National Park is where this is nestled on the banks of the Rio Grande River. And the setting - on this 27,000 acre resort - is perfect for some golfing solitude. But besides these iconic greens, the area also has an interesting history. The Lajitas Trading Post which is now the Pro Shop and Longhorn museum on premises is the spot where Texas cowboys and miners bartered for supplies and drank whiskey. A compelling remnant from the early Texas frontiers. The resort is very proud of their Black Jack Crossing on the course with views of the Rio Grande and Mexico as it was designed by PGA Hall of Fame golfer, Lanny Wadkins. The resort also offers clay shooting, ziplining, stand up paddle boarding on the Rio Grande, archery and they have an equestrian center for family horseback rides. After a few hours out in the sun, pop in at the resort’s watering hole, the Thirsty Goat Saloon to meet other golfers and have a well-deserved beverage. 21701 FM170, Terlingua https://www.lajitasgolfresort.com/
TIP: Marfa is a desert climate - hot during the day, and chilly at night and the best thing to do is to wear layers of clothing. And of course, the altitude and dryness means you can probably drink extra water.
“A beautiful siesta mentality is part of the Far West, embrace it fully for the best experience.”