Gay in Italy: Your LGBTQ+ travel guide
YES you can come if you're not gay. So come find your queer Italy. From shops to bars and from history to the best places, your trip will be for sure memorable.
Italy is a great LGBTQ-friendly destination. Even though the current government is more anti-gay than it’s been. But let’s be clear, you can’t keep the gays away so here’s a little handy guide on your gayest Italian summer yet. After all it’s a favorite for all queer travelers.
There is a reason why people from all over the world flock to Italy. If it’s not for the charming (read: HOT) people and that gorgeous language, it’s for the ancient culture and architecture, plus endless raw beauty (I mean the men, and everything else - I married a tall Italian gentleman after all . And I could go on. And I shall, it’s for the food. And really it does seem like the sun is always shining in Italy, in that famed dolce vita kind of way. So it makes sense that the LGBTQ+ community will want to also get in on all this excitement. And even with the all seeing Catholic Church (what does our Chicago Pope think, ugh, do I need to ask?), and currently a more conservative government, the Italians as a culture, is accepting of the queer community. They may even regal you with stories about the ancient Romans and their very tolerant ways.
My first solo trip as an openly gay young gent was to Italy. I arrived, and it feels like perhaps I have never left. Italy is a little bit like that - it rubs up against you in all the right ways and imprints a certain love for life, for beauty which never dissipates. Having explored the country from north to south, west to east, into the heel and onto its islands, I have always felt a certain warmth and adoration for life that’s undeniable. Italy has always felt safe to me (except that one time Michael and I got haggled, but let’s ignore that for a moment), and the Italians can’t help but be extra hospitable (if you know what I mean). They’ll make you sit for an extra long chat, they will offer to drive you so you never get lost, and most importantly they don’t care about who you are, as long as you can eat.
Italy has various hot spots for the LGBTQ traveler - from energy-inducing cities, to lazy beaches and in between idyllic countrysides. Whatever your steam, there are plenty of queer-friendly, queer-only and queer-centric places.
SO, Is it safe traveling as a gay person in Italy?
Traveling around Italy as a LGBTQ person is very safe for the most part. Although gay marriage is not legal in Italy, same-sex sexual activity has been legal since 1890 and transgender people have been allowed to legally change their gender since 1982. The cities, like Rome, Florence, Venice, and Milan, are a hive of LGBTQ activities and this is where the big Pride parades (June) and other queer events mostly take place throughout the year. Besides the big Italian cities there are a handful of smaller places also recognised as gay-friendly destinations including Naples, Catania, Palermo, Noto, Bologna, Taormina and Gallipoli. And let’s not forget Tuscany’s Torre del Lago (similar to Mykonos in Greece, Sitges outside of Barcelona or Fire Island on the east coast of America).
Does Italy have gay-friendly neighborhoods?
And do they! The most iconic is in Milan - the capital of chic. The city’s burgeoning gay scene has evolved - where it used to be mostly centered around Milan’s main train station, today its heart is the area of Via Lecco in the Porta Venezia district. Porta Venezia is one of the historical gates of the city of Milan. In fact, even the underground station here has a rainbow flag welcoming you to the neighborhood. Italy’s first official LGBT dedicated urban transport stop. But this area’s allure isn’t new, since the 1980s queer bars, queer friendly hotels and shops opened here and has brought in people from all over the country and also Europe. In particular from countries with more restrictions on the community, this became a safe haven of multiculturalism. Milan is the queer trailblazer of Italy in every respect - the first Italian city to register civil unions between same sex people and today it plays host to queer festivals, associations (student, sports and political) plus a very impressive film festival.
Rome, although it doesn’t have such an iconic gayborhood, the city does have Gay Street di Roma, which is a designated queer shopping and bar area on the east side of the Colosseum. The famed Coming Out cafe has been there since 2001 and is the place to meet other members of the community. The city is less openly gay than most other European capitals, and this is most certainly a product of the Catholic Church that has a larger presence here than in Milan.
The other smaller cities in Italy don’t have specifically dedicated gayborhoods, but plenty of queer inclusive activities and places for travelers. Trust me, I have checked again and again.
The best gay nightlife spaces in Italy
Besides for the big cities, there are many incredible queer nightlife spaces dotted all across the country. Milan has the most variety for the queer community, but there is a sense of inclusion for all (call it a “mixed crowd” if you will) at all these different establishments.
Milan
Lecco Milano
A small, but perfect queer bar where DJs frequently play into the early hours of the morning. Bring your dancing shoes. They often have drag performers and karaoke.
Red Cafe
It’s open every day and it’s a playful place to grab inexpensive drinks (and also bar snacks) inside, and outside on their terrace.
MONO Bar
With vintage interiors come here for a fabulous pre-dinner aperitivo selection and adventurous cocktails - also the thrills of the rotation of late night DJs.
Rome
Coming Out
Find this friendly cocktail bar, right opposite the Colosseum and at the start of Rome’s gay street - known for themed parties and even speed dating.
My Bar
If you need drinks, music and the occasional karaoke, you’ve found your place. And also right by the Colosseum.
Florence
Queer Florence
If you’re into dive bars with the latest pop tracks with great drinks plus a festive atmosphere, this will be your utopia.
Piccolo Cafe
One of the oldest gay bars in the city, this is a small low key spot for drinks, snacks and conversation.
View on Art at the Hotel de Medici
Need a Duomo view? Then it’s sublime to come have sunset drinks here before your evening starts. Wines, cocktails and snack boards pair perfectly with views across the city on their rooftop terrace.
Puglia
Zei Spazio Sociale
In the southern town of Lecce, this is where the region’s queer community come to hang out. It’s a bar with drinks plus a social space (that students frequent) with festivals, music events and themed parties.
Taormina, Sicily
Shatulle
With its homoerotic drawings, this queer bar is the perfect place to meet friends and have drinks and snacks out on the terrace.
Torre del lago, Tuscany
Mamamia
Right on the famed Mama beach, this is where to come for drinks, drag queens and all night music.
Amalfi Coast
Taverna Anema e Core
Literally the soul and heart of Capri’s queer scene, this is where to come drink and dance.
Bar Fiorillo
Although it’s not officially a gay bar, the local queer scene have claimed it as their own and turned it into a perfect place to meet people and have drinks.
Gay hotels in Italy
Italy certainly has it all, a mix of luxury grand dame hotels dating back centuries, to more boutique design hotels and a bunch of lovely places in between. Some hotels are gay owned, others specifically queer inclusive, but all of them are gay-friendly.
Milan
Hotel Sanpi Milano is a family owned queer friendly hotel right downtown in the gayborhood. A perfect four star oasis.
Townhouse Duomo is a small boutique design hotel in the gayborhood of the city. The suites all have balconies overlooking the cathedral and Duomo square.
Rome
Hotel Ripa is a gay boutique hotel right at the Colosseum with rooms and suites available. Styled as a contemporary art gallery - there is always something to feast your eyes on.
Florence
Hotel Rivoli is a trusted gay friendly boutique right in the historic center of the city.
Venice
Alle Guglie Boutique Hotel is a gay owned three star small hotel near the main train station of the city. The location right on Strada Nova means you’ll be where the locals are.
The Charming House is a bespoke design hotel catering specifically to the LGBTQ community. Located in an authentic Gothic palace it’s conveniently located just a stroll away from the main attractions of the city.
Puglia
Palazzo del Corso is a luxury hotel right outside the old town of Gallipoli. Although not gay owned, it is a gay friendly and highly rated amongst queer travelers. It is also in a perfect central location for exploring the entire region of Puglia.
Taormina, Sicily
Villa Schuler is a charming four star boutique hotel right in the heart of the little town, with views over the bay of Naxos and the volcano Mount Etna. The property is family owned and is filled with their marvelous antiques.
Savona
Villa Barca is a gay owned and operated retreat in the Ligurian countryside. A gorgeous old manor house turned into gay-centric luxury accommodations.
Umbria
Bellaugello is a gay country guest house specifically for the LGBTQ community. There are giant suites plus a gorgeous infinity swimming pool and a caring host that loves to cook and garden.
Italy's gay events
There is always the biggest LGBTQ festival of the year, Pride. And for this the big cities go all out (particularly Milan) throughout the month of June. But in recent years some of the smaller cities are starting to embrace, like Palermo. Furthermore, the country as a whole has various interesting and queer centric events happening throughout the year.
Milan
Since this is the hub for Pride in Italy, Milan is where to find your queer joy. Milano Pride happens in annually in June and features a variety of activities and events, including a parade, concerts, art exhibitions, conferences, and many many parties. The highlight of the event is the Pride parade (last Saturday of June) and attracts tens of thousands of participants from all over the country and the world.
Rome
Held in Parco del Ninfeo, the Gay Village in Rome is an annual open-air summer LGBTQ festival with exhibitions, outdoor cinema, dance floors and bars. It attracts thousands of visitors every year and is a perfect place to meet an international queer community.
Florence
The Florence Queer Festival is one of the most important events in Italy for queer culture. Held every year, usually in October, it focuses on events featuring writers, directors, filmmakers, actors, plus films that highlight queer culture.
Puglia
Now becoming a sort of mainstay, the annual Gay Italy Summer Party held in Gallipoli happens in early September. A three day wild array of sun, beaches, boats, drinks and late night dancing.
Palermo, Sicily
Sicilia Queer FilmFest is held annually in Palermo in May, and aims to - through the art of film - defend and support the culture of diversity.
A guide to gay shopping in Italy
Italy has an array of gay friendly boutiques scattered across the entire country.
Milan
Antigone is a LGBTQ library specializing in gender studies, feminisms, art and queer theories. They have many books, magazines and host events where you are certain to meet fellow queer people. They also have an outpost in Rome.
Rome
Tuba Library is a women owned bookshop and bar with a focus on feminist and lesbians. Their mission is clear as they fight against discrimination based on gender, sexual orientation, class condition, skin color and geographical origin.
Bologna
Blu Bologna is a gay owned art concept store that Phillippe Model, a French architect slash designer, curated. Winding through a charming historical building it is filled with art, design objects, handicrafts, books and fashion magazines targeted to the queer community.
Igor Liberia was founded in 2007 and is a LGBTQ focused book store in the heart of the city, in the Pratello neighborhood. Nestled inside Senape Vivaio Urbano – a city plant nursery - this is where to find alternative queer books, magazines and graphic novels.