“Eating with the chefs”
If only we could all do that, but hey, let's try
“Eating With The Chefs” quite simply documents the daily meal
(sometimes referred to as the family meal) shared by chefs and their
front of house staff at 18 of the world’s restaurants.
The documentary photographer Pers–Anders Jorgensen, a believer in “the
human story” as the most important thing, set out to create a project to offer a
small window into the world of food creation. He wanted to showcase the “people
who make the restaurant industry happen” and he did so in the most slow and
elegant possible way with this Phaidon oeuvre.
With every restaurant a small write up about the magic of the place, its
philosophy of staff food and cooking alongside the most beautiful photos that
show a moment in time that feasters at these restaurants would just never be
privileged enough to see. Sometimes the philosophy is magical, other times
nostalgic or even effervescent and enthralling. But it seems to always be
generous and open hearted….
The book opens with Asador Etxebarri, in Spain, and their belief in grandma’s
cooking – one of the chefs describe the food to be “strong and frugal” and
recipes include tripe with a Basque sensibility and a garlic soup to fight to the
death for.
Le Chateaubriand, in Paris, and run by a small grouping of massively
talented people is all about high quality without the burden of Michelin stars. A
fisherman’s soup gets the party going here and cherry clafoutis with a café is
what sustains the worker bees.
Il Canto, in Siena, is about the artistry and describes the usage of ingredients like
in artsy watercolor and fine oil terms. Here a saffron risotto or a bresaola and
finocchielle is what gives sustenance and togetherness…
Roberta’s in Bushwick (Brooklyn) is, of course, about free spirit and has had an overnight success seemingly from nothing – but in fact comes from a celebration of freedom. Here bagels with various toppings is what goes and feels appropriate as the pizza ovens warm up and the Clintons walk in.
At St John, in London, the quintessential Britishness is celebrated and staff meals like deviled kidneys and ox hearts with béarnaise sauce just makes perfect sense.
The book, a wondrous piece of pondering ideas and beauty, is a new reason to
cook, to eat out and to respect where all these rivers come together somehow in
the greater scheme of things.
Pers–Anders Jorgensen
$42.42
Phaidon