Nothing I despise more than the monarchy.
If you happen to see me, let’s have a Harry and Megan firestorm. I am ready. However I am interested in one small section that these ghastly humans (FINE, not all of them) are involved in. One of the remaining intrigues is the ancillary world that is executed around royalty – from royally appointed craftsmen to imperial court suppliers.
A deep and annoyingly satisfying fascination (not mine) with royalty isn’t new. The first king in the history of the world dates back to 2500 BC: attested directly from archaeology is the King of Kish, Enmebaragesi. His name was inscribed on an alabaster vase and found at the Sumerian city of Nippur – unearthed in today’s Iraq. Since then monarchies have been revered, hated, exulted and abolished.
With the wedding of British Prince William and Catherine Middleton (cue the dreadful music please), the monarchy has a new generation of royal watchers across the world. “Everyone needs a dream, a fantasy - what better fantasy than to believe in Princes and Princesses and happily ever after,” says Alicia Carroll, the owner of Everything Royal, a dealer specializing in royal family commemoratives and memorabilia. According to Carroll, the British royal wedding has spurred new energy in the elite brands that carry royal warrants and purveyors to royalty. And with 26 active sovereign monarchies in the world – ranging from kings, queens, sultans, emperors to emirs - reigning over 43 countries in all, there are a number of utterly exclusive craftsmen producing just such splendor.
“The First District of Vienna houses most of the city’s Imperial buildings and this is where the Purveyors to the Imperial Court (“k.u.k. Hofliefernaten”) are also located even today,” says Verena Hable, the spokesperson from Vienna’s Tourist Board. An imperial court supplier, in the days of Austro-Hungarian Dual Monarchy, was controlled by an imperial privilege and had a special permit to supply goods and services of the finest quality to the royals – today these products are available to the seekers of finery.
Vienna, a city of extreme beauty and value for history, has respectfully maintained and celebrated the regal craftsman in the inner city. With the city’s “Golden Quarter” of late within the First District, the old is now merging with the new. Signa Group, Austria’s prime real estate group, under the monumental protection act, has restored and embellished the area to the original dating back 100 years. By adding an array of new luxury retailers, a gorgeous Park Hyatt hotel and living opportunities within the First District a new regal exclusivity has been created. “We now have a prestigious shopping zone in downtown Vienna – also called the Golden U – by extending the existing precinct and high end shopping area” says Marion Holbe, Signa Group’s Event Executive.
The First District today is romanced with royal craftsmen. Renowned jewelers to the Imperial and Royal Court, Köchert opened in 1814 on Vienna’s Neuer Markt and continues to create exclusive works of art. Köchert famously created hair jewellery for the Empress Elizabeth of Austria – in particular the 27 diamond emblazed “Sisi stars” for her auburn hair.
Just down the road on Bräunerstrasse is the over 200 year old Rudolf Scheer & Söhne, a seventh generation imperial court purveyor of the finest leather shoes. The oldest shoe manufacturer in Europe today still creates all the classic shoe choices - from wingtips to ankle boots - with prices starting at $6000 for a pair of handsome handmade shoes. “The manufacture of each single pair requires at least sixty hours - we are convinced that to be good to one's feet is to be good to oneself,” says Markus Scheer, the current generation running the company.
Also in the locale, on Kärntner Strasse, are the crystal makers Lobmeyr. Founded in 1823 by Joseph Lobmeyr Senior, the family business created select and unrepeatable crystal chandeliers, vases and decorative pieces for the royal family as the official purveyors. Ludwig, the next generation, was talented in design and forged a close relationship with the creative movement in Vienna at the time. “Rudolph, the son of the Empress Elizabeth of Austria, wrote a letter to his brother-in-law saying that he went to some trouble finding a suitable gift for the Belgian King’s 50th – and that Lobmeyr crystal would be most suitable”, tells Leonid Rath, the Managing partner at Lobmeyr. And this is the Lobmeyer allure as Rath says: “Customers are looking for real quality and exclusive fine crafted and well-designed products, accompanying them for a life time”.
In Sweden the Royal Warrants of Appointment, granted by the King and Queen, extend to 130 purveyors and work differently to Austria. These royal appointees are entitled to display the royal coat of arms with the motto “Kunglig Hovleverantör” underneath and although utilizing the old world techniques and skills, have modernized their offering opening up to a contemporary audience. Skultuna, founded in 1607 by the King at the time Karl IX, has done exactly that with their brass legacy. After looking for a location for a brass foundry the King appointed Skultana as the official brass chandelier makers to the royal family and later to the sharpened taste public.
And so the legacy of monarchy continues. The last porcelain factory in Sweden and carrier of the royal coat of arms, Gustavsbergs Porslinsfabrik was established in 1825.
“We recently delivered our refined chinaware to the royal family at the Crown Princess Victoria and Prince Daniel’s wedding. And we are also proud to say that Prince Carl Philip is also currently collaborating with the design team on a number of projects” says Christina Stranberg, CEO of Gustavsbergs Porslinsfabrik. Then there is the décor brand Svenskt Tenn, nearly a century old, that proudly carries the royal coat of arms yet today create contemporary products for a market interested in a regal connection but not only in traditional handmade crafts.
In the United Kingdom the Royal Warrants of Appointment are issued for the last few centuries to those supplying goods to the royal court and royal personages – accompanied by the official prestigious seal. On Savile Row in London is where Anderson & Shepard has since 1906 been dressing the finest men under the seal of the Prince of Wales. With their bespoke suits starting at $4000 the 100 years of expertise and royal bond is what you’re paying for. “The trends were all towards better quality and personalization, archives had begun to become fashionable again and the groups like LVMH, Richemond and Kering, had started to communicate on their brands’ heritage and savoir faire”, says Anda Rowland, owner of Anderson & Sheppard.
Of course nearby on Albemarle Street is the famed English jeweller Garrard, with over 275 years of carrying royal heirloom love stories - starting in 1840 when Prince Albert commissioned the house to create a wedding brooch for his future wife, Queen Victoria of England. The House of Garrard is also where the Princes of Wales selected the ring worn by Lady Diana and most recently by Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge upon her engagement. And so regal trumps the high street any day. If they say so that is.
What a unique take you always have, Daniel! Love this piece!